Ethnic Style Striped Printed Hooded Cloak? Top Answer Update

by Sue Felshin

Last modified on November 23, 2020

Copyright © 2008-2020 Sue Felshin, All Rights Reserved

The Captivated Knower (detail), c. 1760. The Lewis Walpole Library Digital Collection, 760.0.7. Courtesy of the Lewis Walpole Library, Yale University. An absolutely typical short coat in every respect: length, width, collar, cords, color and visible material (fulled wool).

contents

terminology

In the writings of the time, the usual term for an ordinary short woolen cloak was “short cloak” and the usual term for an ordinary full-length woolen cloak was simply “cloak”, although “long cloak” was sometimes used. (A full-length cloak was generally about mid-calf to keep the floor from getting too wet and heavy.) There are many terms for specialized variations of cloaks, and especially for short cloaks, particularly fancy variations off silk and fur, lace and so on. These terms include cloak, cardinal, bonnet, riding bonnet, capuchin, cape, etc. The meaning of some of these words is difficult to pin down. For example, cardinals were probably originally named for their cardinal red color, but they could also be colors other than red, such as red. B. A runaway ad from the Pennsylvania Gazette, 27 on… A black silk cardinal’s coat, lined with silk and with Gimp on it,…”.

The Businessman, 1774. The Lewis Walpole Library Digital Collection, 774.06.01.01+. Courtesy of the Lewis Walpole Library, Yale University. A typical cloak over the woman(?) on the left, white silk, probably trimmed with fabric or muslin of her own, a cloak over the conquest in the foreground, trimmed with fringes, and a cloak or short cloak over the conquest at back right.

Coats were a fancy version of short coats, cut back to elbow length on the sides, leaving the forearms exposed, and sometimes with the front ends longer than the back; They were made of silk, fur, or lace, lined with silk or possibly fur, and trimmed with silk, fur, lace, muslin, or other trimmings.

Hoods were apparently cut and constructed like cloak hoods, often with an attached cloak. Riding hoods may have been the same and/or had a longer body, in which case the difference between a riding hood and a short hooded cloak remains unclear. Cardinals and Capuchins may have been bonnets with attached cloaks and/or made of fancy fabrics.

A pelisse is a medium-length cloak, cut from slightly shaped rectangles rather than a semicircle (see the Garsault diagram for a pelisse, the lower design pictured on 18cNewEnglandLife.org: Mantle), with a hood and arm slits. This shape requires a lot of gathering at the neck, which might explain why it appears to have been made only from silk and not wool. It was edged with fur and either sometimes or always lined with fur; One artwork shows the fur lining ending below the neckline, alleviating the problem of gathering bulky fur (Madame Drouais by François-Hubert Drouais, c. 1758, at Art Renewal).

Note on documentation

No short cloak artifacts have come to light yet. Therefore, all documentation is based on art and writing and extrapolated from the few surviving cloak and cloak artifacts. See Appendices A, B and C.

Short cape functions

Short coats vs. long coats

There really is nothing better than a long cape to stay warm and dry when standing or walking in cold rain or snow. Long coats are generously sized so you can layer them and keep them closed in front of you to keep the heat in and the cold and wet out. But you can’t do anything in a coat. If you turn around or bend down, the cold starts to creep in, and if you have to use your hands, you lose all warmth when you open your cloak. Even a cloak with arm slits will come undone if you’re really trying to work. The hood prevents you from seeing in any direction but forward and when you turn your head to see you are looking at the inside of the hood. And coats are heavy, and when it gets a little warmer you can’t really cool down by throwing the sides back. you will suffocate.

Vest-fronted cloaks (see What Clothing Reveals, p. 14) solve some, but not all, of these problems, and it’s not clear how common they were.

Catchpenny #196 , Detail: Evening Post Typical short coat. The body of the short cape is slim enough to be noticeable.

A typical short cloak was less full than a cloak: it was only slightly pleated or gathered. This was not only economical but also practical, allowing a narrower short cape to swing around and get in less of the way. Short coats varied in length, but most were about wrist length. Wearing a wrist-length cape allows you to use your arms without opening the cape. When you’re not using your arms, you can cross your arms and tuck in your hands, so you can keep your hands and arms warm even without gloves. Or you can cool down by leaving the short cape hanging open or throwing the sides of the short cape behind you – as the short cape is not too full the sides stay behind you fairly well and the cords (ties) will do just that pull a little on the neck.

Most long cloaks had hoods, but while some short cloaks had hoods, many had collars instead. Learn more about the benefits of collars over hoods below.

Petticoats are generally not made of thick boiled wool as they would be too stiff and bulky. So if you’re standing or walking (but not working) in the rain, a cape is the best way to stay dry. In all other circumstances, if you combine a short cloak with several warm petticoats, you will be just as warm as in a cloak, and you will be able to move more comfortably and easily.

Collars vs. Hoods

Hoods keep your neck and head warm, but make it difficult to see around you because if you turn your head, the hood stays put. They also tend to fall backwards (but see below for wearing a bonnet under a bonnet). If you wear the hood open, its weight tends to pull the cape back, causing it to fall off or the cords to choke you.

Many short coats of the period had a collar (or cape) rather than a hood. The collar finishes off the neckline of the short cloak body to keep the neckline edge from chafing the neck and to keep the folds or gathers in the neck in place. You can roll up the collar to keep your neck warm. In contemporary art, one often sees a two-layer collar. Wearing your short collared cape with a hood and/or pocket square over your hat allows you to stay warm and still turn your head to look around.

Some short cloaks appear to have neither a collar nor a hood (see Appendix A): “a gray cloak without a cloak”, “a small brown cloak without a cloak”.

hood under the hood

Hoods tend to fall forward and blind you or fall back off your head. If you make a hood small enough to prevent this, the hood will be uncomfortably tight around your head, and you can’t even wear the hood with a slightly high 1770’s hairstyle. But when you wear a hood under the hood, the hood holds the hood in place very well, and you can even turn your head – a little – and have the hood turn with it. However, the hood still drags on your neck when you want to wear it.

arm slits?

I haven’t found any documentation for arm slits in short cloaks yet. You don’t really need them as you can so easily pull out from under a short cape.

material

Coats were made from felted wool. (Fancy cloaks could be made of silk and other fine materials.) Fulled wool has been processed so that the fibers twist tightly together, forming a dense, thick fabric that repels water and wind. It doesn’t fray when cut, so edges can (and have been) left raw, saving time, yardage and bulk. Fulled wool is frequently brushed to take a nap; This makes the fabric even more windproof and allows rain to roll off easily when the pile is pointing downwards. The nap can be long enough to be furry (“shag” and other names). The thickest “thunder and lightning cloth” or “fearnought” (and various similar names) could withstand rain for many hours.

The best fulled wool was high quality cloth. To get it today you have to pay over $50/yard for imported English fabrics; The resulting cloak will be warm and beautiful and will last forever. Time cloaks were made from fulled wool in a wide range of qualities, from the best wool to poorly felted duffel bags. Common Modern Melton works well for most reenactments and can often be found for $16/yard, sometimes less.

A rarer alternative, about which little information is available, are coats made from unfulled wool or wool blends such as camlet. The blog Golden Scissors reports on a camlet long cloak artifact tied with silk ribbon.

Unless you’re willing to dive into a research project on unfurled wool overcoats, your short cape should be made of felted wool that has an edge. If you have a piece of unfurled wool that you want to use, either stuff it yourself or save it for another use. (To give yourself full wool, wash for a long time in warm or hot water with lots of detergent. Fabric can shrink by up to 50% either way, so make sure you have enough. Some modern wools have been treated so they will not fill; you may want to test a sample first. Untreated wool often fills well, worsted fills poorly, if at all. But really, you’re better off buying a well-fulled wool.) Please feed Your short cape not body, because “you have to”, because you have chosen an inappropriate fabric. If an unlined cropped cloak isn’t enough to keep you warm, wear two cropped cloaks. Other ways to keep your upper body warm include wearing a wool dress, wearing two dresses, wearing mittens or mittens, layering several linen and/or wool and/or silk handkerchiefs, wearing a quilted vest underneath yours Dress or other primary clothing and, if it suits you, a riding habit and muff.

About Cloth Lining Hoods: Surviving cloak artifacts (long; no short cloaks are known to exist) are generally of the better variety. Their hoods have silk linings, or their linings may be absent; when lined in the body, the lining appears to be a later addition. One cloak in the Townsend Historical Society collection has no lining in the hood. Some writings mention lining (see Appendix A): “a short grayish drug cloak lined with the same sort, only slightly lighter…” (lighter color or lighter fabric; is this doubled or lined for added warmth?), “an old black short Cloak lined with Bengal”, “a blue cloak lined with two different Lincey pieces”, but based on artifacts it seems most likely that the linings are only in the hood. I suggest you line a short cape hood with silk taffeta or ribbed silk (satin would probably be too smooth) or with a light worsted for warmth, or you could leave your hood unlined, but I cannot guarantee these options are correct.

Collar: Contemporary artworks mostly show a collar with the same appearance as the body, but here are a few mentions of another fabric: “a black cloth cloak with a velvet collar but no cloak”, “a broad cloth cloak, of light colour, without cloak, the collar lined with velvet”.

Paneling: Mantles were sometimes paneled along the front edge with shag or some other fabric. “A short brown camlet cloak previously covered with dirty silk”, “a snuff-colored cloak covered with snuff-colored shawl”. This may have been more common with long coats than short coats.

colour

The most common colors were red, brown, blue, various not very colorful hues (such as buff, dove, gray, lead, gray, pearlescent, and white), and black, with black being rather less common than the others. Some other colors appear in records. See Appendices A and B. The documentation of the hood lining color is too sparse to make anything of. I suggest a close match or an inconspicuous color.

closures

Historical artworks predominantly depict a pair of cords (ties) at or near the neck. One runaway ad mentions “a blue cloth cape with a cap on it, tied at the neck with a narrow worsted ribbon” (“cap” is probably a misspelling of “cape”). Vendor advertisements (see Appendix B) mention “frogs for ladies’ cloaks,” “coat pins,” and “worsted and haircords for cloaks.” These buttons can be decorative: “a short cloth cape with silver buttons on it”. One runaway had: “a short cloak of white fabric with a silver button and a silver turn buttonhole.” I suggest cords of wool ribbon or silk ribbon; An animal fiber is warmer when wet than a plant fiber. Based on general documentation of 18th century clothing, cords should not be made of their own fabric and fancy fasteners should not be used.

geometry

18th-century lady’s coats and short coats were cut as modified semicircles. See Figure 1 for the basic shape of the short cape.

Why a semicircle?

A half circle gives you the right fullness around your body while the neckline doesn’t look bulky.

A full circle does not require pleats at the neckline, but uses excessive fabric and results in a cloak that is too full on the body – the hem flaps around and lets in cold air and will snag on things too easily.

A rectangle (or even a modified rectangle) requires so much fabric to get a sufficiently full hem that it creates enormous bulk at the neck.

Not a perfect semicircle

18th-century mantles and short coats were not quite cut as true semicircles, judging from the few artifacts available. The basic shape was a semi-circle, but extra fullness was added at the center back and perhaps sometimes at the center front to allow for gathering or pleating. That is, the neckline of the cloak would end up as a semicircle after gathering or folding.

neck size

If you make the neck too small the cape will suffocate you and if there is a hood it will chafe on your neck and head. If you make the neck too wide, it won’t keep you warm and the cape will shift when you wear it. You should choose a size that you are comfortable with, but in general you want to size the neckline to sit on your collarbone.

To measure the neckline, place a tape measure around your neck or, for an 18th-century method, use a strip of paper and cut a notch the correct length. Remember when you choose the neckline size, this is the finished size. You will crop the neckline of the short cape body larger to allow for creases.

length

Short coats varied widely in length, but most appeared to be between elbow length and fingertip length, with most being around wrist length. When wearing a wrist-length cape, you can use your arms without opening the cape, and when you don’t use your arms, you can cross your arms and tuck in your hands, so you can keep your hands and arms warm even without Gloves.

A shorter cloak lets you work easier but doesn’t keep you as warm; a longer cloak will keep you warmer but will hinder your work.

I recommend a wrist-length cape, and whichever length you choose, I highly recommend making it short enough so that you don’t sit on it.

To measure length, place a tape measure from where you want the neckline of the cloak to be, over your shoulder and down your arm to your desired length. For a method that dates more to the 18th century, use a strip of paper and score it.

When cutting your cape, remember to measure the length from the neckline, not the center of the semi-circle!

width / fullness

No artifacts have come to light, but based on artwork, a typical short cloak was less full than a cloak: it was only lightly pleated or gathered at the back, and not pleated or gathered at all in the front. The short cloak would normally close just barely at the front, so it would be easily noticeable if not pinned or kept closed. However, some short coats were fuller.

To add fullness to your short cape, measure a larger half circle with a larger cutout for the neckline.

Experimental archeology has shown that the correct size for cutting a short cape is as follows: Use the neckline measurement as the half-circle size and add about 6 inches or more at the center back for a fuller short cape.

To measure this, lay out your neckline measurement on your fabric (or paper) so that it forms a semi-circle of sorts. Draw the semicircle and neaten it. Fold it in half to make a quarter circle because you’re cutting on the fold. When you cut, place your pattern about 3 inches in from the fold in the fabric to add about 6 inches of width at the back.

See Appendix D for other options.

collar

Given the lack of artifacts, it’s hard to know how short cloak collars (and capes) were made. According to artworks, they can be anything from a rectangle to a semicircle section and any shape in between, with most being either a rectangle or close to it. Artwork clearly shows that some collars were double; That is, two collar layers were cut and sewn separately to the cape neckline, but not attached to each other. Compare the collar on the man’s cape in Costume Close Up.

I find a semi-circle section to be too full and not flat across the shoulders. A rectangle works well, but tends to curl up and fold along the center line. That’s fine if that’s the kind of collar you want. If you want a wide collar that falls over your shoulders, consider cutting it with a partial round.

The inside edge of your collar can be as long as the finished neckline of your cloak, but some artwork shows shorter collars so the cloak body sticks out an inch or two more than the collar. Going by art, collars range in width from about 3″ to 10″, with 4–6″ being typical.

Hood

The standard 18th-century bonnet is a slight variation on a rectangle: the rear lower corner is shaved off a little in both directions to curve the bonnet around the head a little better. The top half or more of the back seam is folded in a circle rather than hemmed straight to curve the hood around the head. Consult Costume Close Up, Tidings from the 18th Century, or a variety of other sources for details. To make a higher hood (to go over 1770s High Hair or 1780s Big Hair), trim the rectangle longer. To make the hood deeper, cut the rectangle wider. To make a hood that is more open over the shoulders, lengthen the front edge and shorten the back edge.

The bottom edge of your hood should be as long as the finished neckline of your cape.

layout

The only efficient way to cut a short cloak is across the grain, like a long cloak. Your short cape, even with a collar, needs little more than a meter of fabric. Even with 60″ wide wool, the width is not enough to trim your short cape unless you are very short and skinny. You will need to cut and sew the front corners separately.

Lay out your short cape so the nap “strokes” down the back to allow rain to run off the cape. Because the short cape is cut in a semicircle, the grain runs across the front. You could cut the short cape along the grain, but then the grain would run up one side of the front, down the other, and across the back – no improvement. Anyway, you want to protect your back the most because if you get caught in a wind you have your back to it, or if you have to go in you can overlap your short cape in the front for extra protection there.

If your fabric has absolutely no pile, you can cut your short cape lengthwise, but you will need a lot more fabric. It’s just not worth it.

Your short cape will be symmetrical along the center back, making it much easier to trim at the crease. Fold your fabric in half along the length.

Cut

Step 1. Choose one of the paper patterns provided in the workshop, trace a copy and use it as a pattern. Make sure the pile direction (if any) and fold line are correct.

Figure 2: Short cape cutting diagram

Or cut your cape like this: You cut your cape short on the crease. This means that you cut (a variation of) a quarter circle. Lay out your fabric folded along the grain. If your fabric has a grain – for example if it is brushed wool – be sure to measure from the top edge of the grain.

Once you’ve calculated your short cape size using the Mega Nerd Geometry method (see Appendix D), you can figure out how to measure and cut for yourself.

Here’s how regular people can measure and cut: Measure at the top edge of the fabric about three inches from the folded edge to give your short cape enough fullness. This point is the point from which you will draw your quadrant. From that point, swing a ruler, tape measure, string or whatever in a quarter circle, mark the length of your cloak, remembering to add the extra length for the neckline as you calculated in the width section above to have.

Step 2. Your fabric was too narrow to cut out the entire body of your short cape. Cut your corner pieces like this:

If using a paper pattern, mark the edge of your fabric as a line on your paper pattern. Measure in half an inch towards the body of the cloak for a seam allowance. Lay the corner part of the pattern over the leftover fabric, if possible in the same direction, mark and cut out.

If not using a paper pattern, move your leftover fabric to a spot where it can fill in the missing corners, overlap by half an inch, using the same grain direction if possible, and mark and cut. If your overlap isn’t even, even it out to an even quarter of an inch.

Immediately assemble your corner pieces to the cloak body, place them right sides together and pin so you don’t spend half an hour recalculating them later.

If you’re short on fabric, you can overlap by just a half inch and cut the corner pieces with a different grain line. You can even join the corner pieces together!

Step 3. Cut out your collar pieces from the leftovers. Sew together as needed, taking seams into account. Or, for a hood, lay out your hood pattern: if there is a strong nap, lay your hood across the grain and with the nap from front to back of the hood, or if there is no strong nap, lay your hood in both directions. Cut your hood without a seam allowance along the front and back edges; Then lay your pattern out on your hood lining fabric and trim all over with seam allowances. Sew together as needed, taking seams into account. Artifacts are often arranged around the rear underside of the hood, sometimes in multiple small wedges.

construction

Almost the work of a short cloak is measuring and cutting. With a collar, construction is a breeze, and even with a hood, it’s easy once you understand the fan pleats at the back.

Sew front corners to cloak body. Sew with a solid backstitch or combination stitch. Press open and trim to 1/8 inch or less. Fold the neckline and staple or pin. Make three to four folds on each side of the center back. Use a box pleat at the center back and knife pleats from there. Think of it this way: if you bend down in the rain, the rain should drip off the folds, not into the folds. Leave any pleats at the back and not over the shoulder or front, but if you’ve decided to cut a fairly full short cape, you can add up to half the pleats in the front (though I recommend a third or less). Neck Treatment: First piece together everything you need to put together. Then: Collar: For a two-piece collar, sew onto the undercollar first. As for collar stitching (see below), only place the right side of the undercollar against the right side of the short cape. You can omit the flogging step as it will cover that part of the collar, but flogging will create a stronger seam. (See the construction of the collar on the man’s cape in costume up close.) Now sew the collar on: overlap the collar half an inch over the neckline and place the wrong side of the collar against the wrong side of the short cape . From the right side of the cloak, sew about 20cm from the edge of the cloak (about three-eighths from the edge of the collar) with a single stitch or combination stitch. Now, from the wrong side of the cape, sew the edge of the collar down to the inside of the cape. In this way, the collar protects your neck from the edge of the folds and the cape lies comfortably around your neck. Hood: Place the wrong side of the lining on the wrong side of the hood. Under a seam allowance, turn on the hood liner along the front edge of the hood and pinch the liner a tiny bit (about 16 inches) away from the hood fabric. Sew with point à rabattre sous la main (underhand hem stitch), or you can back off and just use a whip stitch. Because of the thickness of the wool, the stitches on the right side should be barely visible, if at all. Making sure the lining lies neatly over the hood, turn under the seam allowance along the back edge of the hood and sew as you did for the front edge. Fold the hood in half along the top, right sides together. Measure one-third to one-half down the back. From the bottom of the back, sew up to this point using a single crochet or combination stitch and a narrow seam allowance (you didn’t account for this seam when cutting the hood, but it’s just a narrow allowance, so don’t sweat it). press open. Using double stranded thread, sew an odd number of gathers around the remainder of the back edge for reinforcement. Lay your thread so that the first and last folds fall inwards – otherwise the fan folds will “pop” out and look silly. Tighten the folds and fasten the thread tightly. I like to do this with the gathering thread close to the outside of the pleats and then run a second gathering thread along the inside edge of the pleats to help keep them neater. A hood in the Townsend Historical Society is (currently) unlined and shows loose topstitching on the inside going around the pleats an inch or two from center, holding the pleats in place (see 18cNewEnglandLife.org). Place the bottom edge of the cape on the folded body, right sides together. Sew using a single backstitch or combination stitch and the seam allowance you are cutting with. Push toward the hood. Twist the lining allowance and tuck it in, covering all raw edges. Schnüre: Schneiden Sie zwei Schnüre lang genug, um bequem eine Schleife am Hals zu binden. Nähen Sie die Schnüre fest an oder knapp unter der Oberseite des Umhangkörpers, an der Kante des Körpers oder setzen Sie sie in einem Zoll oder so fest. Sie können sie einfach nach unten peitschen, aber wenn Sie sich Sorgen über das Ausfransen machen, können Sie das Ende der Schnur einmal drehen. Ein paar Kunstwerke zeigen die an der Innenseite des Körpers genähten Fäden, aber die meisten sind unklar. Peitschen Sie die losen Enden der Schnüre leicht, um ein Ausfransen zu verhindern (Sie können einmal umdrehen, müssen es aber wirklich nicht), oder wenn Sie Seidenband verwenden, schneiden Sie große Zähne in das Ende (wie eine Zackenschere schneidet, aber größer: mit einem Zoll breiten Band ein- oder zweimal falten und einen hervorstehenden Zahn abschneiden, der sich in zwei oder vier Zähne entfaltet).

Okay, das kommt dir vielleicht ziemlich lang vor, aber das meiste davon drehte sich um die Motorhaube!

Anhang A: Dokumentation: Mäntel und Kurzmäntel im Volksbesitz

Artikel sind chronologisch angeordnet. Erläuterungen zu Stoffnamen finden Sie unter Textilien in Amerika .

21. Januar 1729, The Pennsylvania Gazette, PUNKT #18

Philadelphia: 21. Januar. (so genannt). An diesem Tag gegen drei Uhr nachmittags traf Seine Exzellenz, der Gouverneur von York, in dieser Stadt ein, um unserem ehrenwerten Gouverneur einen Besuch abzustatten. Er wurde von unserem Gouverneur, Richtern, Magistraten und anderen Staatsbeamten mit vielen anderen Herren und Kaufleuten des ersten Ranges empfangen und begleitet, und bei seiner Ankunft läuteten die Glocken, die Waffen wurden abgefeuert, und er wurde mit dem ihm gebührenden Respekt und der Ehre empfangen Charakter. Die Frau in einer blauen Reiterhaube, die sich vor ein paar Tagen ohne die Zustimmung des Besitzers einen Zwölf-Schilling-Schein vom Schalter von Francis Knowles geliehen hatte, soll ihn zurückgeben, damit sie nicht weiter entlarvt wird.

7. März 1738 Die Pennsylvania Gazette

RUN AWAY … eine irische Dienerin namens Margaret McClenny, etwa 40 Jahre alt, mittlere Größe, blasser Teint, und verwendet das Wort GLAUBEN in ihrem gemeinsamen Diskurs. Hatte einen langen, dunklen Umhang, der an einer Ecke verbrannt war, und nach unten hin mit einem Ösenloch gearbeitet, eine helle Calimanco-Steppdecke, eine schwarze Alamode-Haube aus Seide, die in das Futter des Umhangs eingesetzt war, und Schnüre der gleichen Art, …

1. Oktober 1741 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #4748

FLIEHE vor Alexander Lockart, einer Dienerin namens Mary Cullen, im Alter von etwa 30 Jahren: hatte an, als sie wegging, ein gestreiftes Baumwoll- und Leinenkleid, mit blauen und weißen schmalen Streifen, eine alte schwarze Seidenhaube, ziemlich zerrissen, ein kurzer gräulicher Drogenumhang, gefüttert mit der gleichen Sorte, nur etwas Helleres [nur in der Kapuze?—SLF] …

Nachlassinventar von Elizabeth Amsden (1724–1768), 20. Januar 1768. Memorial Hall, Deerfield, MA, Zugangsnummer L00.025.

1 blaues Seidenkleid, 1 wechselbare Farbe, 2 Chinee-Do, 1 Seidenkrepp-Do, 1 Russel-Do, 1 Baumwoll- und Leinen-Do, 1 Callamanco-Do, 1 Reitkleid, 1 Kammgürtel-Reitkapuze, 1 schwarzer Kapuzineranhang, 2 rote Wolldecke Do, 1 Velvet Bunnet, 4 Quilted Petticoats, 4 Under Coats [Petticoats], 3 Checd Aprons, 2 Linsy Wolsy Do, 3 White Hollon Do, 2 Holn Taschentücher, 2 Lasd Do, 1 Lasd Cambrick Cap, 2 Plain Lawn Do, 4 Hollon Do, 1 Fächer, 2 Pr Mits, 1 Samtkapuze, 1 Seidendo, 1 Gause Vail, 5 Pr Stockens, 2 Pr Schuhe, 1 Pr Silberschnallen, 1 Pr Steinknöpfe in Silber, 1 schlichter Goldring, 3 Hollon schichten, 3 linn Do, 2 pr bleibt, 2 karierte taschentücher.

26. März 1745 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #6857

LAUFEN Sie weg, im 11. Augenblick, von Thomas McMollin aus East Nantmell in Chester County, einer irischen Dienerin …: Hatte an, als sie wegging, einen kurzen blauen Umhang, keine Mütze, ein altes gestreiftes Kleid, mit alten Gesichtern gestempelt Callicoe…

Virginia Gazette (Parks), Williamsburg, vom 27. Juni bis 4. Juli 1745.

Am letzten Pfingstdienstag, in der Nacht, lief vom Abonnenten in Stafford County eine Dienerin namens Susanna Weakly weg, eine lüsterne, gut gebaute Dirne mit großen Händen und Handgelenken; Bei sorgfältiger Betrachtung kann ein Zeichen in ihrem Gesicht wahrgenommen werden, dunkles Haar, ihre Sprache ist der nordenglische Dialekt und sagt, sie sei in Lincolnshire geboren: Sie trug, als sie wegging, ein dunkles Camblet-Kleid, besser mehr als halb getragen, ein brauner Unterrock aus Leinen und ein alter, gestreifter, geflickter, gesteppter Mantel und ein Oznabrig-Höschen: Angeblich hat sie ein neues Tartain-Kleid, einen alten Pelzhut in altem Grün Umhang, ein Paar Kammgarnstrumpfhosen mit weißen Chevren, ein Paar alte Schuhe und Schnallen; Obwohl es wahrscheinlich ist, dass sie sowohl ihren Namen als auch ihre Kleidung geändert hat, ist sie niedrig genug, um schlimmere Dinge zu tun. Wer auch immer die besagte Dienerin festnimmt und sichert, damit sie wieder zu haben ist, erhält eine Pistolenbelohnung, abgesehen von dem, was das Gesetz erlaubt, bezahlt von John Silbey.

January 21, 1746 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #7511

RUN away Jan. 16, 1745-6, from John Leadlie, of Bristol Township, Philadelphia County, a Servant Woman named Margaret Brown; she has large staring Eyes, has had four or five Children, and has left two behind her: Had on when she went away, a dark coloured Bed Gown of Linsey, streek’d quilted Petticoat, paned one Pane Yellow and the other check’d with a large Check; a blue and white strip’d Apron, a Pair of Leather heel’d Shoes half worn, a Pair of blue Stockings new footed with Blue, a little brown Cloak without a Cape, a Cotton check’d Handkerchief, ty’d on her Head. Whoever takes and secures the said servant, so as her Master may have her again, shall have Twenty Shillings Reward, and all reasonable Charges, paid by JOHN LEADLIE.

Virginia Gazette (Parks), Williamsburg, From April 17 to April 24, 1746.

They took with them a Servant Woman named Eleanor Roark, aged about 30: She stole a Gold Ring, a fine blue Cloak, a fur’d Hat, a Piece of fine Linen, 8 Yards of Country Cloth, a Tartan Gown, and several other Things…

April 24, 1746 The Pennsylvania Gazette

RUN away on the 25th of March, 1746, from the house of Arthur Foster, of Paxton township, in the county of Lancaster, a prisoner woman, named Mary Porter…: … she stole a callicoe gown, a striped blue and white petticoat with a callicoe border, a black callithancoe petticoat, a white flannel petticoat, a red short cloak, a felt hat …

November 26, 1747 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #9152

Philadelphia, November 26. 1747. RUN away, the 20th instant, from William Plasket, of Trenton, a Welsh servant woman, named Sarah Davis, of a middle size, fresh complexion, slow of speech, and has a scar on her forehead. Had on when she went away, a beaver hat, the inside furr’d, with a rising on the crown, a calicoe gown, old quilted petticoat, a blue jacket and cloak, tow ozenbrigs apron, one pair of blue stockings, and a pair of leather heel’d shoes. Whoever secures her, so as her master may have her again, shall have Forty Shillings reward from WILLIAM PLASKET.

March 29, 1748 The Pennsylvania Gazette

RUN away from the subscriber, on the 15th instant, a servant woman named Ann Fortey, had on when she went away, a grey linsey wolsey gown, and carried with her a striped cotton and callico gown, a holland quilted, a brown, and a striped flannel pettycoat, a black hat, and red cloak …

April 16, 1748 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #9455

Philadelphia, April 14. 1748. RUN away…: Had on…, a fine Holland cap, with a cambrick border, an old black short cloak lined with Bengal [only in the hood? —SLF], blue worsted stockings with white clocks, a very good fine shift, and a very good white apron.

October 18, 1750 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #12205

Run away on the 14th inst. from Robert Montgomery, of New Providence township, Philadelphia county, an English servant woman, named Elizabeth Morris, about 24 years of age, of middle stature, round shoulder’d, full faced, large eyes, one of her upper teeth remarkably black, has a small scar on her forehead, and has dark brown hair: Had on when she went away, a light blue tammy gown, old brown linsey quilted petticoat, a white cloth short cloak, with a silver button, and silver twist button hole, white yarn stockings, and pretty good flat heel’d shoes; she has also with her some muslin caps, a white linnen apron, and is a great smoaker of tobacco. Whoever takes up said servant (if in this province) and secures her, so that her master may have her again, shall have Fifty Shillings reward, and reasonable charges, and if out of the province, Three Pounds, paid by ROBERT MONTGOMERY. Hinweis: All masters of vessels are desired not to carry her off at their peril.

November 1, 1750 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #12253

Philadelphia, November 1. 1750. Whereas on Saturday night last, the house of Benjamin Franklin, of this city, printer, was broken open, and the following things feloniously taken away, viz. a double necklace of gold beads, a woman’s long scarlet cloak, almost new, with a double cape, a woman’s gown, of printed cotton, of the sort called a brocade print, very remarkable, the ground dark, with large red roses, and other large red and yellow flowers, with blue in some of the flowers, and smaller blue and white flowers, with many green leaves; a pair of woman’s stays, covered with white tabby before, and dove colour’d tabby behind, with two large steel hooks, and sundry other goods. Whoever discovers the thief or thieves, either in this of any of the neighbouring provinces, so that they may be brought to justice, shall receive TEN POUNDS reward; and for recovering any of the goods, a reward in proportion to their value, paid by BENJAMIN FRANKLIN.

November 22, 1750 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #12449

Run away …: Had on when she went away, a new plat hat, a blue worsted gown, an old lightish colour short cloak, …

June 11, 1752 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #14451

An Irish servant woman belonging to Samuel Boggs, near Haddonfield, in Gloucester county …: Had on when she went away, … and an old red cloak…

January 2, 1753 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #15175

Run away on the 27th of December last at night, from Lydia Morgan, of this city, an Irish servant woman…: Had on and took with her when she went away, … a light colour camblet short cloak…

July 5, 1753 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #15799

RUN away from her master, on the 10th of June last, and supposed to be lurking about the city, a Welch servant woman…: Had on …, and often wears a red cloak, what other clothes she has taken is uncertain.

November 27, 1760 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #25750

Philadelphia, November 25, 1760. THREE POUNDS REWARD. RUN away, on Wednesday the 12th of the is inst. November, from John Biddle, at the Sign of the Indian King, in Market street, a Dutch Servant Girl, …: She had on and took with her when she went away, a pair of new Russel Stays, a striped Camblet and striped Linen Gown, also a red and purple Calicoe Gown, a short blue and white Linen Gown, green Calimancoe Jacket, a striped Lincey and black quilted Petticoat, a white short Cloth Cloak, and black Sattin Bonnet, …

December 2, 1762 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #29853

RUN away from the Subscriber, living at Martick Furnace, in Lancaster County, an Irish Servant Woman, named Catherine Smith … Had on and took with her … blue Cloth Cloak …

May 27, 1762 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #28676

RUN AWAY …: Had on …A black Silk Cardinal Cloak, lined with Silk, and has Gimp on it, …

December 29, 1763 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #32405

FOUR DOLLARS Reward. RUN away, the 10th of October last, from the Subscriber, an Irish Servant Woman…: Had on, when she went away, an Irish red [?] Cloak or Cardinal …

May 24, 1764 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #33362

RUN away from the Subscriber, living at the Sign of the Ship and Castle, in Front street, an Irish Servant Woman, named Catherine McMullin …: Had on, when she went away, Mens Shoes, a green Calimancoe Gown, short red Cloak, black Bonnet …

June 7, 1764 The Pennsylvania Gazette

WAS stolen…the following goods belonging to the Subscriber, one Irish Poplin gown, a dark Cotton Chintz Ditto, with a large Strawberry, a light Bound Cotton Ditto, one small shelled Ditto, a black Silk Cloak, one black Calimancoe quilted Petticoat, lined with blue Tammy, one black Peeling Bonnet , lined with Taffety, …

March 13, 1766 The Pennsylvania Gazette

RUN away…an Irish Servant Girl, …: Had on, and took with her, an old Camblet Gown, and two Calicoe Gowns, one of which is marked with Spade and Club, a quilted Petticoat, one Side Calimancoe, the other Linsey woolsey, a pair of Shoes that have been capped and soaled, white and other Worsted Stockings, a white Straw Bonnet , with a green Ribbon round the Edge and Crown, a short red Cloth Cardinal and a black Silk Cloak, two coarse and one fine Shift, a black silk handkerchief, and has taken several other Things out of the House…

June 5, 1766 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #38092

WAS stolen, on the 7th of May last, from Francis QuickBleach yard, of Amwell Township, Hunterdon County, in West New Jersey, sundry Sorts of Goods, viz. three homespun Shifts, one Pair of homespun Sheets, three Pillow Cases, a long Calicoe double Gown, purple and white, the Figure on one Side much smaller than the other, one striped Linsey Petticoat, with a deep and pale blue, the white is Cotton, and bound round with blue Cadice; six Womens Caps, one of them remarkable, the Border Lawn Needle worked, and four check Handkerchiefs. Said Goods are supposed to be stolen by a Woman, who pretends to be a Fortune teller; she stoops in her walking, her Habit as near as can be remembered is a cloak and blue striped Linsey short Gown, a Linsey Petticoat, and a Leaden coloured Stuff Bonnet. Whoever secures said Goods, so that they may be had again, or the Thief or Thieves, that Justice may be executed upon them, shall receive Forty Shillings Reward, paid by the above mentioned FRANCIS QUICK, or MOSES VANCOURT, in Moreland Township, Philadelphia County.

October 16, 1766 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #38991

RUN away the 19th of September, 1766, from the subscriber, living in New garden Township, Chester County, an Irish servant girl, about 21 years of age, named Agnes, or Ann Borby, a bold looking girl, fair hair, tied behind; had on, and took with her, a blue gown and quilt, striped linsey petticoat, a red and yellow poplin gown a long callicoe bed gown, a short cloth cloak, with silver buttons, on it, new Irish stays, of a lightish colour, new shoes, thread stockings, and blue yarn ditto, marked at the top with S. F. and a striped linen bonnet. It is thought that one James Moor is gone with her, as be has absconded the neighbourhood, and will pass for man and wife; he is a native Irishman, a thick set fellow, round shouldered, hath been in the King’s service, apt to drink hard, and in drink apt to quarrel, his cloaths unknown. Whoever takes up said man and woman, and secures them, so as they may be had again, shall have Three pounds reward, or for the girl Thirty Shillings, and reasonable charges, paid by me JOSEPH FRED.

March 26, 1767 The Pennsylvania Gazette

…STOLEN …the following Articles, viz. one Silver Watch, Maker’s Name RICHARD WEDON, London, No. 2586; one red Calimancoe quilt, lined with blue and white Linsey, double Diamonds; a Pair of Stays, green Russel, braided with white; a black Quilt, single Diamonds; a Riding Skirt, striped Camblet, red Cloak; a Bonnet , Camblet Gown, Cotton Ditto, two Pair of Holland Sleeves, a Holland Apron, Muslin Ditto, a Pair of Sheets, and sundry other Things…

July 7, 1768 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #42812

THIRTY SHILLINGS Reward. RUN away, the 27th of last month, from the subscriber, living in Trediffrin, Chester county, a healthy, hearty looking servant maid, named MARY KENNEDY, came from Ireland…; had on, when she went away, …, a black cloth cloak, with a velvet collar, but no cape to it, …

January 12, 1769 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #43921

Philadelphia, January 5, 1769. TWENTY SHILLINGS Reward. RUN away on Tuesday morning, the 3d instant, from the subscriber, at the sign of the Blue Ball, in Chestnut street, Philadelphia, an Irish servant woman, named Mary Conner, … She took with her a pompadour stuff gown, a coarse straw hat, a blue quilted petticoat, an old red cloak, a pair of coarse white thread stockings, with other wearing apparel unknown, and many probably change her dress, as she has said she would dress herself in mens clothes. …

The Virginia Gazette, Williamsburg, July 20, 1769.

ALSO RAN away from the subscriber, in May last, ELIZABETH BERRY, an English convict servant woman, …. She had on, and took with her, … a good blue cloth cloak with a hood, and an old red cloak. …

July 5, 1770 The Maryland Gazette

Ran away from the subscriber, living in Port-Tobacco, the 8th Day of May last, a likely Negro Wench, named NANN, about Five Feet high, very spare: Had on, when she went away, a stampt Cotton Gown, a ditto Petticoat cross-barr’d, and an old blue Camlet Mantle lined with stampt Cotton [just the hood? —SLF] …

Virginia Gazette (Rind), Williamsburg, September 27, 1770.

ESSEX county, July 31, 1770. RUN away from the subscriber, in the night of the 26th instant, two Irish servants, TERRANCE GAFFNEY and JANE his wife, aged about 30 years each. … JANE has a thin visage, and wears gold bobs with stones in them, and black callimanco shoes, with plated buckles, white cotton stockings, an old callico gown, and a very large scarlet cloak. …

February 14, 1771 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #48287

Concord, Second month 4, 1771. RUN away … also stole, and took with her, six caps, with cambrick borders, a broadcloth cloak, of a lightish colour, without a cape, the collar lined with velvet, …

May 16, 1771 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #48841

FOURTEEN DOLLARS Reward. RUN away from the subscribers, living in Philadelphia, on the 13th of April last, the following servants, viz…. The other is a Welsh servant girl…she came from Bristol, in the ship Chalkley, Captain Peter Young, about 12 months ago; she had on, and took with her, when she went away, two calicoe gowns, one dark, the other a purple in diamonds, much worn, also a short striped linen ditto, 1 white and some check aprons, 2 shifts, one of hemp linen, the other about half worn, new leather shoes, with large round white metal buckles, old blue worsted stockings, a short red cloak, with a hood to it, a chip hat, with a blue and white ribbon on…, and Twenty-five Shillings for the girl, reward, and all reasonable charges, paid by us JOHN REEDLE, CHRISTOPHER PECHIN.

December 23, 1772 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #52340

RUN away from the subscriber, near George Steuarttavern, at the Lower Cross Roads, in Baltimore County, the 10th of December 1772, an English convict servant woman, named MARY PARKER, about 23 years of age, pretty lusty and fat, marked with the smallpox, of a fresh complexion, dark sandy coloured hair, has a blemish on her right eye, so that it looks whitish; had on, and took with her, a chints gown, a brown worsted gown, a red ditto, a red plain worsted petticoat, a redish pennella ditto, a light coloured cloth cloak, a black silk bonnet, a black Barcelona silk handkerchief, a red flowered ditto, also a linen handkerchief, with St. Paul’s church, and the various cries of London, stamped on it, a man’s hat, red worsted stockings, red calimancoe shoes, a pair of women calfskin ditto, a black hood, and several other kinds of head clothes…

April 2, 1772 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #50733

Philadelphia, April 2, 1772.

SIX DOLLARS Reward. RUN away on the 18th of October, 1771, at night, from the subscriber … an indented servant woman, named ELEANOR ARMSTRONG … about 26 years of age, … says she was born near the city of Armagh, in Ireland, and came to this city in the Newry Packet, Captain Robinson, in June last; had on, and took with her, when she went away, … a blue cloth cloak, with a cap [probably means “cape” —SLF] to it, tied at the neck with a narrow worsted tape …

The New York Journal; or the General Advertiser, July 30, 1772

Five Dollars Reward. Run away from the subscriber, near the New Dutch church, New-York, two Irish servant women… The other Elizabeth Curry, about eighteen years old, of a fair complexion, freckled in the face, fair hair, had on …, no cloak, hat, or cap on her head…

August 12, 1772 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #51543

FORTY SHILLINGS REWARD. RUN away, the 1st of this instant August, from the subscriber, living in Salisbury township, Lancaster county, a servant girl, named CATHERINE McDANIEL; had on, and took with her, a linen check bonnet, and white linen bed gown a brown lincey ditto, two petticoats, one brown lincey, the same of the bed gown, the other tow linen, 2 coarse shifts, 2 or 3 tow aprons, a red cloak, and small check handkerchief, no shoes, nor stockings…

Virginia Gazette (Rind), Williamsburg, October 22, 1772.

RUN away from the subscriber in Leesburg, the 4th instant, a servant woman named ELIZABETH SMITH, 25 years old, about 5 feet 4 or 5 inches high, her hair very black, has several scars on her under lip, chin, and arms, and much pitted with the smallpox; had on, and took with her, a short black calico gown, a white linen ditto, white apron, and white humhum sack and petticoat, red cardinal, flowered blue sattin capuchin, calico petticoat, black sattin laced bonnet, one pair of cotton and two pair of hose, old black calimanco shoes with plain silver buckles, one ruffled and two plain shifts. …

January 13, 1773 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #52466

…WHEREAS she, the said McDonnald, went off, and left the child with the said Smith; her apparel a white handkerchief about her head, a blue cloak, lined [just the hood? —SLF] with two different pieces of lincey, and a blue quilt; …

Virginia Gazette (Purdie & Dixon), Williamsburg, April 29, 1773.

PETERSBURG, April 21, 1773. RUN away, last Night, from the Subscriber, two Slaves, namely: … Also a Wench named AMINTA, appears to be about thirty Years of Age, short and well made, has much the Look of an Indian, and is so, her Mother having been brought from the Spanish Main to Rhode Island, has long black Hair, which she wears in her Neck, and took with her a black Quilt, a red Flannel Petticoat, a dark Ground Calico Gown, a blue and white one, and an old light coloured Stuff ditto, a red Cardinal, a black Bonnet, and several other Things.

Virginia Gazette (Purdie & Dixon), Williamsburg, May 6, 1773.

RUN away from the Subscriber, in King and Queen, about the Middle of March last, a Country born Negro Woman named SARAH, a very lusty stout made Wench, … She carried with her several Changes of Apparel, among which are remembered a red and white Calico Jacket and Petticoat, a white Holland and blue Plains Ditto, a red Flannel Petticoat, a purple Cloth Cloak, a black furred Hat, with a Gold Band, Button, and Loop, a black Silk Hat, several white Linen Shifts and Aprons, a spotted Yarn Rug and Dutch Blanket, a Pair of English made Leather Shoes, and several Pairs of Thread, Cotton, and Worsted Stockings, with a small red Leather Trunk. She has been chiefly a House Servant, is a fine Sempstress, Knitter, Washer, and Ironer…

August 18, 1773 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #53738

Lancaster Goal, July 28, 1773. THIS day were committed to my custody, as suspicious persons, a certain John Edwards, alias Jack Mitchel, and Thomas Hutchinson, as they call themselves, and pass for Silversmiths to trade, aged 22 or 23 years each; the said Edwards, alias Mitchel, has a bay Horse, 14 hands high, 7 years old, with a bald face, and a little white on one of his hind feet. Also was committed, a certain Nancy Kean, as she calls herself, and passes for a wife to said Edwards, alias Mitchel; she is a tall thin woman, has black hair, and is pitted with the smallpox; had a dark ground calicoe gown, a black silk apron, a long black silk cardinal, with a lace round it, and a black silk bonnet; she has a young child sucking at her breast, about seven weeks old.

Pennsylvania Gazette, 23 February 1774

Run away, the 20th of January last, from the subscriber, living in Oxford township, Chester county, a servant girl, named Margaret Smith, well featured, broad faced, pock-pitted, short rough blackish hair; had on, and took with her, an old black silk cardinal, diced, not trimmed save the cap [cape? —SLF], an old black silk bonnet, a callicoe gown, striped with a little purple flower, a good deal wore, an old blue quilted petticoat, a lincey petticoat, striped greenish and red, a piece of old lincey, striped blue red and white, which I suppose she will make a bed-gown of, a pair of old calfskin pumps, lined with linen, coarse blue stockings; she is lusty and talkative, it is like she will pass for a woman with child, and probably is so; she came to this country last summer from Belfast with Captain Ewing; was taken near Lancaster, and sold there to one Mr. Jack, in the Manor of Conestogoe, but returned, and it is likely she has gone that road, as she talked of going to the back woods. …

Boston Gazette, March 28, 1774

Stolen one Evening last Week from a House in Union-Street, one Scarlet Cloth Riding-hood, one Scarlet Cloth Cloak, one black Russell quilted petticoat, one Tippet and one Holland Apron. A handsome Reward will be given to any Person that can give Information to the Printer, so that the Thief may be detected and the Things recover’d.

June 29, 1774 The New Hampshire Gazette

Lost on Friday last a black silk CLOAK, Taffitee Outside, Persian Lining, with blue Baise between ; it was drop’d between the Pound and Jonathan Trickey’s at Newington— Whoever has found the same, and brings it to the Printer, shall be well Rewarded.

14 Nov 1774:33 (2042) Boston Evening Post (Fleet)

…Ran away… an apprentice girl, named Jane Fontena, about 19 years of age: She speaks French, and had on when she went away a red stuff damask gown, green stuff quilted coate, a long brown cloak, and a black bonnet. …

March 29, 1775 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #57330

FORTY SHILLINGS REWARD. RUN away the 25th of March, at 8 oin the evening, an Irish servant maid, named Sarah Clarke (alias Stanley) between 25 and 30 years of age; had on when she went away, a green baize short gown and a black petticoat, also a red under petticoat, with a pair of black stockings, and a pair of old shoes; she also took with her a pair of shoes, lined with red flannel, belonging to her mistress, also a small red striped long gown, with black spots between the stripes, mended under the arms with another sort of calico, likewise an old dark nap cloak; she has no bonnet on, as she has commonly a ribbon round her head; she is of a middle stature, fat and clumsy, her face has some little purple spots; she is fresh coloured, a cut in her forehead, also darkish hair and very thin, and looks very suspicious of being with child; she has been married to a soldier in Ireland. Whoever takes up and secures said servant, so that her master may get her again, shall have the above reward, and reasonable charges, paid by JOSEPH CAUFFMAN, in Second street, near Race street.

November 15, 1775 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #58519

Philadelphia, November 12, 1775. SIX DOLLARS REWARD. RUN away from the subscriber, living in Pine street, between Second and Third streets, an Irish servant girl, named Elizabeth Cleland…; had on, and took with her, … a blue shag cloak …

November 15, 1775 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #58521

FOUR DOLLARS REWARD. RUN away, in the night of the 12th of this instant November, from the subscriber, in Bethel township, Chester county, a native Irish servant woman named Mary Cortney…; had on and took with her, when she went away, … and a claret coloured cloak with a cap [probably “cape” —SLF], and a check bag to carry her things.

January 17, 1776 The Pennsylvania Gazette

ONE DOLLAR Reward. RUN away in the night of the 15th inst. from the Subscriber, living in Arch street, Philadelphia, an English servant girl, named Ann Watson…; had on when she went away a dark brown stuff gown, a black quilt, check apron, red cloak, and black hat …

The Penna. Gazette Moore’s Town, January 25, 1776.

EIGHT DOLLARS Reward. STOLEN out of the house of the subscriber, in the township of Chester, Burlington county, … the following articles, viz, One brown and orange dorsateen gown, one brown and orange poplin ditto, two light cotton ditto, one calicoe double short ditto, a superfine light coloured broadcloth short cloak; a pair of white russel stays, almost new; a lawn apron, one Irish linen ditto; one muslin handkerchief, marked R.A.; a muslin apron, two check ditto; a kenting handkerchief; a pair of womans homespun cotton stockings, and a coarse pillow case, &c &c. It is supposed the above clothes were stolen by a woman. …

April 3, 1776 The Pennsylvania Gazette

A SCOTCH Girl, named Jane Forbes, about 20 years of age, ran away … a round full face, with high cheek bones, is pitted with the smallpox, had black eyes, and a soft inarticulate voice, speaks much in the Scotch dialect, has the appearance of great good humour, and affects a modest downcast look; her dress was a cloth coloured pelong bonnet , lined with pale blue mantua, light coloured cloth cloak, with a hood and gimp, broad striped ribbon round her neck, white kenting handkerchief, brown and yellow camblettee gown, blue stuff quilted petticoat, lined with blue baize, and a pale green and white striped lincey jacket and petticoat…

The Pennsylvania Gazette, April 24, 1776

FORTY SHILLINGS REWARD. RUN away last night, from the subscribers, living near Brandywine Bridge, two Irish servant women, …; had on, and took with them, … a grey coating cloak, without a cape, each a black bonnet, …

October 23, 1776 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #60188

TWENTY DOLLARS Reward. RUN away, on Friday, the 4th inst. a young Negroe woman, named BET, of middling stature, thick, fat, and likely; her ears bored for rings; … took with her an half worn scarlet cloak …

April 30, 1777 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #60859

EIGHT DOLLARS Reward. RUN away from the subscriber, living in Evesham township, in the State of New Jersey, Burlington county, on the 20th of April, 1777, a certain SARAH McGEE, Irish descent, born in Philadelphia; she is about 23 years of age, about 5 feet 7 inches high, and very lusty made in proportion; she had on, when she went away, a snuff coloured worsted long gown, a spotted calicoe petticoat, stays and a good white apron, a snuff coloured cloak, faced with snuff coloured shaloon, a black silk bonnet, with a ribbon round the crown: …

Providence Gazette, 14 June 1777

On Saturday the 7th of June, 1777, was stolen and carried away from the house of the subscriber, in Providence, six yards and one quarter of patch, white ground, with a chocolate stripe; one calico gown, with ruffled cuffs lined with Russian linen; one black double sattin sprigged cloak, with lace round the head and gimp round the cloak; one gauze apron, one spotted handkerchief with a blue stripe round the edge, two pair of cotton stockings, also two thirty dollar bills, and other money; with a number of other articles. The person who stole the said articles calls herself Polly James, alias Polly Young; she is a short thick Irish girl, about 19 years of age; had on when she went away, a black skirt petticoat, a short calico gown with long sleeves, has brown hair, light eyes, fair complexion, and went off without stockings or shoes, and without a bonnet or hat. …

October 15, 1778 The Pennsylvania Packet ITEM #63249

THIRTY DOLLARS REWARD. RUN AWAY from the subscriber, at Trenton Ferry, a Mulatto woman …; had on … and a large white cloth cloak; has with her a large bag of cloaths and a blanket…

ITEM #63479 November 3, 1778 The Pennsylvania Packet

EIGHT DOLLARS REWARD. RAN AWAY from the subscriber, living in Second street, near the corner of Arch street, ANN COFFIN, an indented servant girl…: Had on when she went away, which was on Monday morning last, a short linen check gown, green petticoats, and a cloth coloured cloak…

Inventory of Rebecca Parker of Cumberland County, Penn., 1781

6 gowns–one each of blue stuff, chintz, striped chintz, striped cotton, striped calico and white pollonea / 5 cotton short gowns / 1 under jacket / 2 cloaks–one of cloth and one of silk / 1 silk bonnet / 1 fur hat / 1 hood / 1 black silk gauze hood / 6 petticoats–one each of black calimanco, striped linsey and underpetticoat, and 3 striped cotton / 1 winestone colored quilted petticoat / 3 stuff shirts / 3 shifts / 2 stays / 6 wearing caps / 3 night caps / 2 check aprons, 1 linen apron, 1 lawn apron / 7 handkerchiefs–one silk, one black silk, 2 lawn, 1 muslin and 2 gauze / 3 pr thread stockings / 1 pr cotton stockings / 1 pr silk mitts / 1 pr linen mitts / 1 pr stuff shoes / 1 pr calfskin shoes / 1 pr silver shoe buckles / 2 silk cuffs / 3 pr sleeves / 1 pr silver sleeve buttons / 1 silver hair pin / 2 pocketbooks

February 25, 1784 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #69789

Philadelphia, Feb. 24, 1784. THREE POUNDS REWARD. RUN away from the subscriber, on the first instant, an Irish servant girl …; had on and took with her …, a drab coloured coating cloak, with a hood to it …

Inventory of Tjatie Dubois of Rochester, Ulster Co., NY. July 2, 1791 (Dutch/ Huguenot)

… 4 long Gowns, 7 short do., 3 long do., 3 white aprons, 1 Peticoat, 5 check aprons, 7 pr. linen stockings, 9 handkerchiefs, 4 pair shoes, 3 black handkerchiefs, 3 [ ?]ack Hoods, 1 persain apron, 1 broad cloth cloak, 2 pr. woolen stockings, 1 short broad cloth cloak, 1 pr. silver sleeve buttons, 1 pr. silver shoe buckles, 1 silk gown, 1 old bonnet, 15 shirts (Shifts?)…

New Hampshire probate inventories, 1760–1789

In estate inventories of 80 women, 70 hoods out of many different materials, including camblet, cloth, “scarlet”, “brown”, and 38 that were not specified as to type or color, which probably means an ordinary fabric and color. Fancy hoods (velvet, gauze, silk, “laced”) make up 15 of the total of 70.

Appendix B: Documentation: Cloaks, short cloaks, and materials for sale

Items are arranged chronologically.

September 25, 1734 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #1700

STOLEN out of the Shop … an old striped Calimanco quilted Petticoat, a short brown camlet cloak, faced down before with a dirty colour’d Silk, …

English salesman’s trade card, 1742, Bodleian Library, University of Oxford, John Johnson Collection Exhibition 2001, Cries, Itinerants and Services, image 115. http://www.bodley.ox.ac.uk/johnson/exhibition

Thomas Rimer. Salesman. At the Black Lyon and Star (1742) …and all Sorts of fine Scarlet and Cloth Coulour’d Short Cloaks…

August 4, 1743 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #5861

MICHAEL BROWN, Silk Dyer, from LONDON, Is removed from Chesnut street into Sassafras or Race street, at Mr. William Maugridge’s, Ship Joiner, Philadelphia; where all persons may have all Sorts of Silks, quilted Coats and Gowns, Silk Stockings, Gloves and Camblet Cloaks, scowred, dyed and dressed; Burdets and Tabbies watered; Mens Cloths dry or wet scowred; Linen and Cotton dyed blew, green or yellow: Likewise Mildew or Stains taken out of new Pieces of Silks, Stuffs or Worsteds that are damaged at Sea. All done with the greatest Expedition, and to as much Perfection as in London. Hinweis: All Sorts of Worsteds and Stuffs, scowred and pressed, very reasonably, and well.

August 18, 1748 The Pennsylvania Gazette

Philadelphia, August 18. 1748. To be sold by Charles Willing, at his house in Third street, …, mens and womens ready made short cloaks…

December 18, 1750 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #12515

Imported from London, and to be sold very reasonable, by JAMES LOUTTIT, at his store, on Hamilton’s wharff, Striped duffels, bearskin, superfine broad cloths, white, red and striped flannels, womens short cloaks …

May 1, 1755 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #18208

JOHN STANDLEY, Living on the east side of Second street, where Mr. Peters formerly kept his Office, manufactures, and sells, the following goods, viz. … frogs for womens cloaks …

October 13, 1757 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #21112

Imported in the last ships from London, ELL wide and yd. wd. Cyprus gauze, parisnet, a great assortment of silver’d stomachers, spangled and plain, handkerchiefs and girdles spangled, shapings for shoes ditto, gimps of various kinds, Brussels and Mecklin lace, minionet ditto for gentlemens ruffles, brown lace, paste earrings, Dresden handkerchiefs and tippets, polanee cloaks with hats trimmed, gentleman and ladies muffs, cardinals, Dresden ruffles and wristbands, sword knots, …

April 16, 1761 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #26430

Philadelphia, April 9, 1761. By virtue of a writ to me directed, will be exposed to public sale, …SUPERFINE, middling and coarse broadcloths, naps, coatings, bearskins, kerseys, …Leghorn hats, chip Hots, pewter, silver watches, japanned waiters, English and Indian damask, ditto paduasoys, tobine lutestrings, mantuas and ducapes, sattins, polanees, cloaks, bonnets, hats, stomachers, twitchers, bugles, spanglers, ermine, ostrich feathers, fillijie, paste and stone necklaces, and ear rings, cyprus gauze, … by SAMUEL MORRIS, Sheriff.

September 5, 1765 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #36594

WILLIAM SYMONDS, Has imported from London, Bristol, and Liverpool, A Large assortment of dry goods, which he is now selling at his house, … MARY SYMONDS, Milliner, Having divided the stock in trade, in the millinery business with her sister Ann Pearson, has to sell in the corner shop in said house, for ready money only, a great variety of millinery and other goods, amongst which are, … ermine for cloaks, muffs and tippets…

September 26, 1765 The Pennsylvania Gazette

… hose, writing paper, coloured threads, womens cloth coloured and scarlet cloaks, silver watches, best London pewter in casks, knit waistcoat and breeches patterns, Leghorn and chip hats …

March 1, 1770 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #46204

JOSEPH WOOD, being determined to embark for England early in the summer, is now selling off at his shop, the corner of Market and Second streets… BROCADES, white, pink and yellow sattins, white, pink and cloth coloured English damasks, pink and blue shot mantuas, white and garnet coloured figured sattins for cloaks; white, blue and black figured modes, green, white and blue sarsanets, …, thread turbans, fine white chip, Leghorn and Dunstable hats, Poland starch, powder blue, hair powder, pins, Whitechapel and common needles, wash balls, bobbins and tapes, Lisle and marking thread, naked dolls, court plaister, Jacob’s ladder, mens and womens white and cloth coloured lamb and beaver gloves, …, a variety of millenery, ready made up, such as cloaks, caps, hats, bonnets, &c. fine white dimity, ginghams, soosees, Damascus, Brunswick, Bombay stuffs, a great variety of calicoes, cottons, and chintzes,

January 16, 1772 The Pennsylvania Gazette

Now selling at PRIME COST, by MARY SYMONDS, MILLINER, In Chestnut street, betwixt Front and Second streets, Philadelphia, …; a large assortment of trimmings, for hats and cloaks, ermines, fringes and gimps, of various colours, figured, plain, love, and velvet ribbons; mens, womens, boys and girls gloves and mitts, of every kind and colour; ladies sattin riding hats, with feathers, or gold or silver buttons, or bands for ditto … with great choice of the most fashionable silk and sattin cloaks and shades …

October 5, 1774 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #56251

PETER STRETCH HATH just imported from London, in the last vessels, a neat assortment of the best superfine Broadcloths, amongst which are scarlet, deep and light blue, black, parson’s grey, buff, garnet, light and dark drabs, and pearl colours, of different shades, suitable for womens long cloaks…

April 10, 1776 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #59180

FOR READY MONEY ONLY, JOHN KAIGHN HATH FOR SALE, at his STORE, in Second street, the second door below Christ Church, the remains of his DRY GOODS, consisting of the following articles, viz. FINE, super and superfine broadcloths, with suitable trimmings, by wholesale and retail, among which are, parsons and ravens grey, black, Saxon and pea green, London brown, purple, light drabs, suitable for womens cloaks, double milled drabs, for great coats…

February 9, 1780 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #65092

To be SOLD, Wholesale & Retail, BY WILLIAM SITGREAVES, At his store in Market street, opposite the Indian King, the following GOODS (for ready money) part lately imported, and part received for sale on Commissioners, viz. …, bureau, cupboard, chest, box case and stock locks, assorted, brass furniture for bureau desks, ditto, brass and iron desk, cupboard, table, chest, side, butt, H and HL hinges, ditto, brass picture hooks and cloak pins, ditto, shoemakers awl blades and tacks, handsaw, crosscut saw, mill saw, and smith’s files, wood screws, screw pullies, and marking irons, claw hammers assorted, a variety of Barlow and other penknives, cutteau, pistol cap and seal and pocket ditto, scissars, sheers and razors, square and round shoe chapes, …

August 24, 1785 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #71918

PHILIP WILSON, Is just arrived from London, and has brought with him a large, general and quite fresh assortment of dry goods, which are now opening at his store in Water street, opposite Baynton, Wharton and Morgan, and which he will sell on very reasonable terms, consisting of … Womens stays, scarlet and drab coloured cloaks and cardinals; calimancoe and damask shoes, and chip hats …

October 29, 1788 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #75295

Just imported in the Brigantine Commerce, Capt. James Darrell, from London, and now opening for SALE, by JOHN SHIELDS, In Second street, opposite the City Tavern, … 7 qr. light lead cloths, suitable for womens cloaks, and chair linings; …

January 6, 1790 The Pennsylvania Gazette ITEM #76373

Just imported from England, and to be sold, by WILLIAM CRAIG, At his store in Second street, opposite the Baptist Meeting, A NEAT assortment of yard wide and 78 Irish linens, and white and brown Irish sheetings, white Russia sheetings and white Raven’s duck, Irish and Dutch dowlasses, Scotch shirtings, …Scotch threads, from No. 7, to 70, coloured ditto, best Baladine sewing silks, scarf twist, worsted and hair cord for cloaks…

Appendix C: Documentation: Artworks

Willem van Mieris, The Greengrocer , 1731. At the Web Gallery of Art.

No apparent hood or collar. Very full—may be full circle cut. Note this is Continental European.

Baby, Cloathes & All for Three Pence, c. 1750. Jarvis, J. (fl.c.1750) publ. Guildhall Library Print Room, p7513234.

By the pulling of the cape along its the edges, probably two layers of cape. By the drape over her arms, probably a thin wool.

The knowing one taken in , c. 1760. The Lewis Walpole Library Digital Collection, 760.0.7.

Red short cloak with collar and strings.

Francesco Londonio, Seated Shepherd and Peasant Girl with Basket, circa 1765. Go to LACMA; click on Search and enter “Londonio”.

No apparent hood or collar. Note this is Continental European.

The Recruiting Sergeant , 1767, John Collet. At the Artchive. The old woman’s short cloak has a two-layer collar.

Red short cloak with double collar/cape set back from edge, and black(?) strings.

The Female Orators , Rennoldson, M., 1768, after John Collet. The Lewis Walpole Library Digital Collection, 768.11.20.1.

Both combatants wear short cloaks, both with collars of two separate layers and with strings at the neck. The left one’s strings are long enough to cross in front and pass behind the waist.

Catchpenny #s 10 , 29, 67 (7 short cloaks), 68, 139, 175, 196 (6), 237, 250 (2).

Many short cloaks, most very similar to each other: narrow, with collar, strings at neck or no visible closure. Red ruffle at neck, in #10 as cover art of one Dover issue of this book, is probably colorist’s error. The Catchpenny Prints: 163 Popular Engravings from the Eighteenth Century .

Charity Begins At Home , March 20, 1773. Metropolitan Museum of Art, 52.585.72.

Possibly a length of fabric rather than a short cloak. “A portly, well-fed clergyman waves off an emaciated woman who begs alms from him. She, dressed in rags, carries a sickly looking child on her back and a cane. With his huge head he turns to chide her as he steps by. Inscribed impressions read: “Pubd March 20th 1773 by W. Humphrey opposite Cecil Court, St. Martins Lane.”” —Metropolitan Museum.

The Wife’s Fortune Told , c. 1767–1770. British Museum, 2010,7081.1443.

Henry Walton, A Market Girl ( The Silver Age ), between 1776 and 1777. Yale Center for British Art, Hartford, Connecticut, USA, B1981.25.650.

This short cloak is unusually in several ways: It is large—perhaps the short cloak is sized for an adult. The hood is worn under the bonnet. And there is ribbon trim along the front edge of the hood; this is probably a binding, sewn right sides together, very narrowly, on the outside, and then turned and tacked on the inside without turning the edge under (compare a cloak described at the Golden Scissors blog), but the outside of the hood is not visible so we can’t be sure.

To the Subscribers to the Lottery Magazine for 1777… The Lewis Walpole Library Digital Collection, 777.00.00 P45 T6.

Short cloak with small hood.

The Watercress Girl , Johann Zoffany, 1780. On the Web at the Athenaeum.

Girl wears red short cloak with hood and narrow trim with looped edge. Narrow tie at neck. Either a longish short cloak, or too large for her.

The Flower Girl , Johan Zoffany, circa 1780. On the Web at the Athenaeum.

Girl wears red short cloak with either collar or hood. No visible ties. Either a longish short cloak, or too large for her. The edge of the body has an ambiguous appearance—it may be a standard plain cut edge, or it may be narrowly turned under to form a hem. There is a repair in the body, visible just about the heads of the spray of nasturtiums.

Published by: William Wells. Eliz.th Pollard. (Elizabeth Pollard), 1781. British Museum, 1851,0308.544.

Nice example of an elderly woman holding her short cloak closed from the inside for warmth. She wears a collar, almost like an Elizabethan ruff, which appears to be a separate collar worn for warmth; it may or may not be attached to a short cloak (or tippet???).

The Return from Market , Francis Wheatley, 1786, detail. On the Web at the Athenaeum.

Short cloak on child, apparently with collar.

The Roguish Boy, 1791. Jones, John, printmaker. Yale University Library, 791.10.01.01+.

Relatively long short cloak with cape and narrow collar. There’s clearly a very narrow binding. My guess is it’s silk ribbon.

The Blind Beggar and His Granddaughter . John Russell. The Bowes Museum. On the Web at ArtUK.

A wonderfully patched and torn short cloak. It appears to be roughly closed with a pin. Unclear if that’s a hood, a collar, or a hood under a collar.

Figure Study . John Opie. Blackburn Museum and Art Gallery. On the Web at ArtUK.

Girl wears red short cloak with hood and narrow trim with looped edge. Whatcha wanna bet it’s the exact same cloak as in The Watercress Girl ? Artist’s prop!

Appendix D: More ways to measure out a cloak

No-math way #2: Use waste fabric, or even paper, and cut out test cloaks (see cutting instructions above) until you get the right size. Start by cutting a small neckhole, and cut it larger until it works. Remember, you need to cut, pleat the back, and test. You can cut a full size test cloak if you like, but the test cloak only needs to go about halfway down your upper arms for you to be able to tell if it fits your neck and shoulders okay. The bigger you cut the neck hole, the shorter the cloak will get, so start with extra length.

The easy-math way: To calculate the size to cut your short cloak, start with your finished neckline measurement. Use the formula c =2π r to find how far the neckline will lie from the center point. The neckline is 1/2 c (half of the circumference because this is a half circle cloak). So calculate neckline ÷ π: this is the neckline radius. Add your desired length for your cloak: that is the overall radius. When you cut your short cloak, you will draw your quarter circle starting three inches in from the fold line; draw out the quarter circle using the overall radius as the radius and then cut out the neckline using the neckline radius as the radius.

For the geometrically minded, here is a detailed and nerdly explanation (the non-geometrically minded can skip to the bottom of this section): When you cut out a partial circle and bring the straight edges together around the center point, you form a perfect cone. People, of course, aren’t perfect cones. If you imagine fitting a cone around your body, you can see that the widest part of your body is your shoulders. You need a cone that is large enough to fit around your shoulders. Above your shoulders, you will crimp in the cone toward your neck by pleating or gathering it. Above your neckline, you will chop off the tip of the cone entirely. Below your shoulders, you will let the cone fall inward in folds. If you were to cut a full circle and turn it into a cone, then if you made the neckline big enough to go around your collar bone, you would find that by the time the cloak reached your shoulders, it would flare so much that it would be more than big enough to go around your shoulders, and by the time it reached your wrists there would be so much excess width that it would fall in deep folds. This is why you don’t want to use a full circle. If you were to cut a cone where the neck hole was the exact size of your neckline, then the cloak wouldn’t be wide enough to go over your shoulders. It would pull open in front and it would pull around to the back. To achieve a typical short cloak with, your short cloak should be just full enough to fit over your shoulders. You can calculate this as follows: Measure the distance around your body at the widest point of your shoulders. This is the circumference of your half circle at your shoulders. The formula for converting diameter to circumference is c=πd. Since you will be making a half circle cloak and not a full circle cloak, remember to use the radius rather than the diameter. To find where to cut the neckline, measure the distance from your chosen neckline down to where you measured the widest part of your shoulder, and subtract that distance from your shoulder radius.

But honestly, you don’t have to do all that. Just fold your fabric in half and lay out a quarter circle 3+ inches in from the fold. That will give you a half circle with an extra 6+ inches at center back, and it will be a good size. I bet 18th century cloak makers didn’t calculate geometry. I bet they just knew the right way to cut a cloak.

bibliography

See also Appendices A, B, and C for further citations.

Baumgarten, Linda, Costume Close Up , the Colonial Williamsburg Foundation, 2000, paperback ISBN 0896762262, hardcover ISBN 0879351888.

Baumgarten, Linda, What Clothes Reveal: The Language of Clothing in Colonial and Federal America: The Colonial Williamsburg Collection , Williamsburg, Va. : Colonial Williamsburg Foundation in association with Yale University Press, New Haven, 2002, paperback ISBN 0896762262, hardcover ISBN 0879351888.

Bowles and Carver (publs). The Catchpenny Prints: 163 Popular Engravings from the Eighteenth Century . The engravings were originally published in London in the late 1780s and early 1790s. Reprinted by Dover Books. Also reprinted by Dover Books as Old English Cuts and Illustrations for Artists and Craftspeople , ISBN: 0-486-22569-0. Both editions now out of print.

Gilgun, Beth, Tidings from the 18th Century , first edition, Texarkana, TX : Rebel Publishing, 1993, ISBN 1-880655-04-7; second edition, Texarkana, TX : Scurlock Publishing, 1999.

Montgomery, Florence M., Textiles in America 1650–1870 , New York: W.W. Norton & Company, 1984; W. W. Norton; Re-issue edition (August 27, 2007), ISBN-10: 039373224X, ISBN-13: 978-0393732245). This excellent book, long rare and expensive, has recently been reprinted. Buy your copy now while supplies last!

Note on Images

Images from the Lewis Walpole Library Digital Collection are courtesy of The Lewis Walpole Library, Yale University, used with permission granted to the author.

Capelet: a small cloak, usually covering the shoulders

From the 14th century the word tippet seems to have been used. Merriam-Webster defines tippet

2: a shoulder cloak of fur or cloth, often with drooping ends

While I Marc Carlson’s Glossary of some medieval dress terms has a longer description. (fat of me)

tippet

This article is about the garment. For the shield used in medieval warfare, see Mantlet. For the clothing worn by Catholic priests, see Mantelletta

A cloak (from Old French mantel, from mantellum, the Latin term for a cloak) is a type of loose garment usually worn over house clothes to serve the same purpose as a cloak. Technically, the term describes a long, loose, cloak-like cloak worn by both sexes from the 12th to the 16th centuries, although by the 19th century it was used to describe any loose-fitting, shaped upper garment that resembled a cloak resembles. 1] For example, the dolman, a 19th-century cloak-like women’s garment with part sleeves, is often referred to as a cloak.[2]

In English, the idiom “to take up/pick up/assume the mantle” comes from the Bible and means to assume a position of authority, leadership, or responsibility in a particular area, particularly in the sense of continuing an earlier figure.[3] The most notable appearance in the Bible is in 2 Kings 2:13 where Elisha takes up Elijah’s cloak (Hebrew: אדרת ‘addereṯ).

Mantelets [ edit ]

Mantelet, French, 1895

A variation of the mantel is the mantelet (also spelled mantelot and mantlet), which typically describes a shortened version of the mantel. The term appears as early as 1386 in Geoffrey Chaucer’s “The Knight’s Tale”. In the 18th century a mantelet was a woman’s short cloak, and in the early 19th century it was a decorative shawl crossed across the chest and tied at the back, usually of fur or lace.[1] By the late 19th century, a mantelet was a woman’s shoulder cloak with extended ends at the front, sometimes held in place by a belt at the waist.

See also[edit]