Fusion Mineral Paint Goddess Ashwagandha? Top Answer Update

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Fact 4 – Minimal preparation

Fusion’s fantastic adhesion – another result of the 100% acrylic resin used in its manufacture – means the paint can be applied to many surfaces with minimal preparation. However, it is worth doing the preparatory work correctly so that your creation will stand the test of time.

– Always clean your furniture thoroughly – Fusion’s TSP is an excellent phosphate-free organic degreaser.

– If your surface is shiny, you need to do a “sanding grind” – you’re not trying to remove the surface substrate, just giving a key for the paint to bind to.

– Parts that have been previously waxed need a little more attention – use mineral spirits to remove the wax and then wash and clean thoroughly.

Different brushes are required for different surface types. As well as offering their own line of brushes, Fusion offers a wide range of Staalmeester brushes that offer premium quality professional grade applicators that can last a lifetime. The following tips will show you how to choose the right Fusion brush for your project. Download a brush care PDF to print and keep for yourself.

How to Choose the Right Fusion Brush | A place called home GA

Types of brush bristles

Brushes for painting are usually made from synthetic or natural bristles.

Synthetic bristle brushes are perfect for gently gliding and applying paint. Depending on your application, synthetic bristles can range from thick to ultra-fine. These are perfect for our Fusion Mineral paint!

Animal hair is used in the manufacture of natural bristles, which allows a brush to hold more paint. We recommend them for applying SFO stain, milk paint, wax, gel stain. As a side note, natural bristles can retain moisture, making them ideal for painting with water-based paints like Fusion. The coarse texture is ideal for applying paint with thick mass when you want to achieve texture.

A special blend of natural and synthetic bristles is also found in the Staalmeester® line of products, providing the benefits of both. Download Staalmeester’s guide to choosing a brush.

brush shapes

In most cases, the type of brush you should use depends on the type of project you are working on. A flat brush or an angled brush are ideal for beginners as they can cut into edges and cover large, flat surfaces. Because of the feathered edge of our flat and angled brushes, you see fewer brush strokes and the bristles touch the surface less. Stains and lacquers can also be applied with flat brushes.

There is no better multi-purpose brush than the round one. With the right technique, they can cover both flat and detailed areas. You can choose between round and oval brushes, which are great all-purpose brushes.

Some of the specialty brushes include our Wall Brush, a large, flat brush that’s ideal for painting walls by hand (especially if you want to add some texture!) or for applying gel stains to large areas, like above. With our pointed sash brush you can effortlessly paint inside edges and corners.

Taking care of your brush

We want to help your Staalmeester® brushes last a lifetime for you and your customers. You might find a few loose bristles at first, but by swirling them around in your hand you can easily dislodge them.

Fusion’s brush cleaner is recommended to remove residual paint and condition bristles, even when rinsing FusionTM with water. You can use the Brush Cleaner on any type of brush hair. The product is also ideal for cleaning hands, floors and work surfaces. This non-toxic, natural linseed oil soap is made from 100% natural ingredients. Rinse your hands or tools with water after lathering them with the soap.

If possible, avoid drying brushes with the bristles facing up. Bristles can be damaged if water gets into the brush. Your brush should be hung on a hook using the hole in the handle.

Is there a brush you prefer? Staalmeester is a fantastic brand. Let us know which one is your favorite in the comments below!

Have you ever wondered how to avoid brush strokes when painting furniture or cabinets? Varnishing involves a meticulous process to ensure that the varnish leaves little to no brush marks on the surface for a smooth finish. Light brushstrokes aren’t very disruptive, but the paintwork becomes a terrible mess when there are heavy brushstrokes. To fix that, we’re here to share some tips to avoid brush strokes when using Fusion Mineral Paint.

1. Use the right brush

Achieving a smooth finish on any paint job doesn’t necessarily mean you have to use the most expensive brush on the market. A key tip we recommend is to find a brush that feels most comfortable to you, as everyone’s hands are built differently.

Working with a heavy brush can make it difficult to grip; You may leave thick, uneven textures on the surface as you paint. On the other hand, light brushes can cost you more paint than usual, affecting the overall finish.

When shopping for the right brush, we recommend Fusion’s Staalmeester brushes, made from a mix of synthetic and natural bristles. Synthetic bristles ensure an even and smooth application of paint, and natural bristles contribute to better paint absorption. The brush shapes are at will; You can choose between an angled brush, a flat brush, or a rounded brush, whichever works best for you.

If you already own a Staalmeester brush or two, you’re off to a good start! As you start painting, be sure to fan through the bristles of the brush first and let some of them fall out. You want to make sure that no bristles are transferred to the surface when you paint. To keep brushes in tip-top shape, clean brushes with Fusion Brush Soap after each paint job.

2. Don’t immerse yourself in too much paint

Less is more! As cliché as that sounds, this is also understandable when applying paint to any type of surface. You want to achieve that smooth finish by applying a thin layer at a time. Heavy amounts of paint result in visible brush strokes and uneven layers of paint. It also takes longer to dry, so there’s a lot more room for error.

Carefully apply thin coats of paint until you achieve your desired finish. Then, play it safe by gently brushing away excess paint from the brush as you dip it into the container each time. Eventually, slowly but surely, he wins the race.

An initial light coat of Fusion Mineral Paint will take approximately two hours to dry before being ready for a second coat; Finally, when the surface is dry to the touch, apply thin coats of paint every four hours for an even and smooth finish.

3. Paint in one direction only

This habit is the one mistake many beginners make when they start painting, especially on wooden surfaces. Brushing against the grain is sure to leave distinct brushstrokes, resulting in rough textures in the painted areas.

Avoid brush strokes by applying one end of the area to the other in a single direction. Then carry this brush consistently over the surface. Don’t go over where you painted in the opposite direction as this will create texture. Also, be gentle when stroking the surface; Pressing the brush too hard can cause buildup and unnecessary dripping.

You can seamlessly apply this technique to small pieces with a brush, but you may have trouble doing it on particularly large pieces of furniture or walls. We recommend switching to a lint-free microfiber roller for more efficient paint application when working with large areas.

4. Extend the life of your paintwork with Fusion Paint Extender

Fusion’s color extender allows you to work with the color before it dries a little longer by preventing it from drying as quickly. This is referred to in the coatings industry as “more open time”. Extender can help reduce the appearance of brush strokes.

Improves the flow of Fusion Mineral Paint

This product minimizes brush and roller marks

Wear on spray guns is reduced

The amount of extender added can affect cure time.

This eco-friendly version contains no VOCs!

5. Don’t be too hard on yourself

A DIY project and knowing how to avoid brush strokes doesn’t have to be difficult. Separate tools and paint types are required to achieve this high gloss look. The great thing about painting with Fusion Mineral Paints is how it delivers that rustic yet modern appearance without having to overdo it. Hand painted projects are just as beautiful, if not more beautiful than factory made pieces. So remember to have fun with your work and enjoy the process. Bottom up!

frequently asked Questions

Why Use Fusion™ Mineral Paint?

Built-in Top Coat ~ Quality and Durability ~ Eco-Friendly

Fusion™ has taken Homestead House Paint Co. over 25 years to develop, test and refine, and their hard work has really paid off. Fusion™ results are nothing short of spectacular, providing furniture painters and decorators with a premium color that features: an environmentally conscious formulation, low VOCs, superior durability, easy one-step self-leveling application and significantly improved adhesion and strength. This 100% acrylic paint delivers an exceptional matte finish and requires minimal prep and no top coat!

What is 100% acrylic paint?

Fusion™ is 100% acrylic resin and nothing less! This results in a consistent and cohesive surface across your piece. So what exactly does that mean? With Fusion™ you have a perfectly intact surface that is non-porous, meaning you don’t need to apply a top coat unless you want a special effect. Other paints on the market like latex or anything less than 100% acrylic use vinyl and latex as they are inexpensive fillers. Our products are made from only the highest quality materials, resulting in high quality paint with very low VOC levels. Not only are they low in VOCs, but they are also free of many other chemicals currently found in other paint lines, such as ammonia and formaldehyde. Fusion™ contains none of these.

How long does it take to dry?

Drying and curing are two different things. Dry time usually refers to the touch or stickiness. Fusion™ should feel dry within one to two hours. High temperatures and high humidity play a role, which means that drying sometimes takes a little longer.

The curing time is approx. 21 days, again depending on the weather. What does that mean? You can still use your piece with care, but the paint will be strongest to resist any staining the longer it takes to cure. Once the Fusion™ line has cured, its durability is unrivaled. Our Fusion™ line is waterproof.

How should I prepare my piece?

No preparation? No problem – not always true!

A paint will only work as well as the surface it is applied to will allow. No matter what product you use, if you apply your paint to an unstable surface, the paint will chip, peel and eventually fail you. Many surfaces have previously been finished with lacquers or high gloss finishes chemically engineered to resist all sticking. A little preparation is enough. If your surface is shiny, take 5 minutes and lightly sand to remove some of that shine, allow the paint to really soak in some tooth and bond with the surface. Our Ultra Grip makes it possible to paint over laminate, metal, etc! You can now use our Fusion™ line on virtually any surface with outstanding results!

How do you prepare?

We’re not saying you have to take out your electric sander and take half the day off to sand down your entire piece, no, just grab a 150-220 grit sandpaper and gently rub your piece and de-shine your surface.

How much paint do I need for my projects?

Fusion™ has excellent coverage, which allows us to offer Fusion™ in 500ml and tester sizes. 500ml are enough for approx. 7m².

Can you really paint any surface with Fusion™ Mineral Paint?

Yes, our Ultra Grip allows Fusion™ to stick to surfaces that are not normally suitable for painting, such as. B. painted surfaces, metal or glass.

Can I get a distress or layered look?

Yes, you can get a distressed or layered look!

Due to Fusion™’s superior adhesion, scraping can be difficult once the paint has set. If you wish to distress something we recommend doing this shortly after the paint has dried or using our wax block resist.

Press the wax block along the edges where you want to see the distressed effect between the layers of paint. Anything applied to the waxed areas will resist the color. You will notice this resist if you lightly sand your piece at the end of applying all layers of paint. So often when distressing it’s easy to sand through all the layers – this will keep this from happening! The color underneath the wax stays in place and any color applied to the wax peels off effortlessly, allowing for the perfect distressed look.

Do I need to finish my piece with wax?

No, you don’t need to finish your piece as Fusion™ is formulated with a built in top coat. Once Fusion™ has cured it gives a highly durable and washable surface without the need for a top coat. Of course if you want you can get a nice shine by putting a wax on top. We have a whole range of beautiful decorative finishing products to choose from to give your piece that extra something.

When do I use Fusion™ Tough Coat?

Fusion™ Tough Coat is designed for high-traffic surfaces such as table tops, seating, kitchen cabinets, doors and floors. Tough Coat will not yellow and provides added durability against general wear and tear, water damage and food stains.

How long does Fusion™ mineral paint last?

Our packaging is made from high quality PET, which means the paint inside won’t dry out or go bad. The screw caps offer a highly secure closure and do not allow air pockets to penetrate. The shelf life is up to 7 years if the lid is closed properly, the paint stays in perfect condition, does not peel off or become crusty and hard.

*Fun Fact – Did you know that all containers are filled and labeled by hand? We employ people, not machines!

Can you use Fusion™ for outdoor surfaces?

Yes! Fusion is a high quality 100% acrylic resin and will stand up to the elements! Please pay close attention to proper preparation as your substrate is very important to Fusion’s adhesion, durability and longevity.

Is it UV resistant?

Our pigments are of the highest quality and will outperform our competitors in sunlight for many years longer.

Can I use Fusion™ indoors with increased humidity?

Yes absolutely! Because Fusion creates a consistent barrier with the highest quality resins, water and moisture will not adversely affect color.

If you remember, a few weeks ago I snagged this gorgeous vintage buffet on Facebook Marketplace with plans to turn it into a TV console for our basement!

And if you’ve been at this for a while, you know I’m a little obsessed with stripping down furniture to create a cohesive style in our home: our patio furniture, filing cabinets-turned-pantry, and legacy clutter—just about a to name a few.

Although I paint quite a bit, I haven’t really found “my match” in a furniture color yet. So the hunt continues…

Fusion mineral paint

I recently heard about a new brand I’ve been wanting to try – Fusion Mineral Paint. Find out, my neighbor is friends with a local retailer – and even better news, this shop is lovely! If you’re around, check out Grafted Together Furnishings in West Chester, OH and tell them I sent you.

At least the paint! It is said to be VOC-free, minimal prep work, easy application, excellent coverage, matte finish and no top coat required. Sounds pretty amazing right? Let’s see how it goes!

Deliveries:

TSP Cleaner (or alternative) + an old rag (this should be fine for most parts but see note below)

220 grit sandpaper or sanding block

Brushes – I bought mine from Grafted Together; it was synthetic. You can use natural fibers, but synthetic provides a smoother finish.

Mini Paint Roller – I used a foam roller and I think a woven roller cover would have been better. The brush had a much better opacity than the roller!

Fusion Paint color of your choice (SO many gorgeous options)

Zinsser B-I-N primer based on shellac

drop cloth

My process:

Gather your supplies and have them ready (this will help avoid the slightest bit of frustration 😉 )!

Remove any drawer handles or removable parts that you do not want to paint.

Remove drawer fronts or other parts of your furniture that would be easier to paint if not attached.

Wipe, clean and dry all surfaces on your item to be painted. *Side note, our buffet had a distinct scent! Not the best, y’all. It’s just an old piece of furniture. So first I cleaned all the surfaces with Simple Green Cleaner, then TSP, then sanded everything. It helped, but the smell wasn’t completely gone. I’ve tried sprinkling baking soda with lavender over the buffet and also putting drops of Citrus Fresh essential oil on top with a dehumidifier nearby!

I think some or all of the above helped, but if I poke my nose in the depths of the closet there is still a faint smell, but that didn’t stop me from continuing! Research your piece before you begin.

If it’s a very smooth surface, roughen it up a bit with a light sandpaper

Wipe and dry again

Tape off long edges you don’t want to paint (I just go without tape)

Protect your floor with newspaper or a cloth

If necessary, start with a primer. *I haven’t used it, but see note below.

Start painting with a slightly damp brush. I recommend painting each surface by surface and then returning to the first painted surface for a second coat. Enamel paint dries quickly to the touch. Once you have finished coating one surface, Grafted Together recommends lightly brushing across the entire surface with long strokes in the same direction, creating an even “gloss” or “texture”.

, then come back to the first surface you painted for a second coat.

The recommended drying times between coats can be found on the paint can and stick to it! 😉 Fusion recommends 6-8 hours between coats. I wasn’t aware of that at first and I only waited an hour. * It ended up taking 4 coats but I think if I had started with a primer it would have been less.

Wait and wait and wait for your piece to be very dry (again, check the paint can for recommended times) – I’d say at least 24 hours. The curing time is different than the drying time! Fusion cures over 21 days, meaning it hardens and the color hardens. So be careful with your piece for the first 21 days!

Attach drawer fronts or other detached parts.

Newly installed hardware. I painted mine matte black with Rust-Oleum.

Pour yourself a drink and enjoy the fruits of your labor!

The Final Reveal!

It’s hard to believe how far this room has come since we started our 1970s basement update six months ago! Slowly but surely it’s coming together and we really enjoy spending time here.

I really enjoyed working with Fusion Mineral Paint – it was very easy! The opacity and texture actually reminded me of chalk paint, which I really like. I suggest checking out Fusion’s website and different painting styles. I just used the paint with no distracting or additional properties. The color does not require a top coat, but you can use Fusion’s Tough Coat for heavily trafficked surfaces.

We’re in no rush to start decorating, but one thing on our list is to upgrade that used TV sooner rather than later! Whenever that happens, there will be a great place to land here over the repainted console!

As I mentioned above, Fusion Mineral Paint takes 21 days to cure, so in the meantime we’ll be careful what we put on the TV console. And actually I’ve already picked out our next furniture painting project: a pedestal table for our basement too!

Did you use Fusion mineral paint? Or do you have a piece of furniture in mind that you would like to try on? Let me know if I missed anything in the tutorial or if you end up trying!

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Proper technique is essential: getting the right results with Homestead House Milk Paint or Fusion™ Mineral Paint depends on applying the paint correctly.

Improper technique can produce different results. The FAQs of this website contain detailed instructions, how-to videos and guides on how to properly prepare and use the products we manufacture.

You can also attend workshops at your local retailer to learn proper technique. We strongly recommend testing your methods before painting.

Color Accuracy: The colors depicted online and in our promotional materials have been digitally rendered and may not be the same color when applied to your media. The actual color of paint applied will depend on a number of factors including lighting, finish, top coat and medium.

We recommend testing the paint on a scrap piece of scrap material or an unexposed surface before painting to see how the end result will look.

No Liability: Homestead House Paint Co. Inc. shall have no liability whatsoever for any loss or damage, including property damage, resulting from the misuse of its products, including improper technique, or failure to test methods and color accuracy prior to painting.

Is Fusion™ mineral paint safe?

We have subjected our paints to the most rigorous testing available and all the results tell us that our paints are safe for regular use on furniture. Fusion™ Mineral Paint has been certified non-toxic by the American Society for Testing and Materials under the ASTM/D-4236 standard. This means that, in the opinion of a toxicologist, there are no components of the paint that, in form, quantity or concentration, have the potential to produce chronic adverse health effects.

Despite all this, the possible effects of long-term use by a child have not been studied and we cannot guarantee that there is no potential for harm. Our paints are certainly lower risk and a far safer alternative than other paints. However, we recommend that you do your own research before using it on items that children will be in close contact with.

Are Fusion™ Tones for Tots™ safe?

Fusion™ takes care of you and your little ones. Our Tones for Tots™ collection meets both the lead and phlalate restrictions of the Toy Safety Standards of North America, as well as ASTM D4236 LHAMA safety labeling requirements.

1. CPSIA Act of 2008 – Section 108 – Pthalates

2. ASTM D-4236 – Confirmation that products have been properly labeled for chronic health hazards under the Federal Hazardous Art Materials Labeling Act (LHAMA).

3. CPSIA Section 101 – Total Lead in Paints and Finishes

Our paints are not intended for use on items that may come into contact with a child’s mouth.

Is your color safe to use during pregnancy?

As with the baby question above, our paints have been certified non-toxic. While this means that our colors are considered safe for the general population, we cannot guarantee that they will not affect different people in different ways. We recommend that you consult your doctor before using our products or any other during pregnancy or breastfeeding.

Is your paint safe for spray applications?

Our paints are not intended for use in spray applications. Our paints are non-toxic in liquid form, but when sprayed they can be broken down into molecules small enough to be inhaled. Small particles like these can be inhaled and cause adverse health effects.

HOW TO USE IT

Use a clean cotton cloth or brush to apply wax in a thin layer and work into indentations of carved details or surface imperfections. Wipe away excess. Leave to dry for 3-5 minutes. Polish to a high gloss with a clean, lint-free cotton cloth.

COVER

We have multiple sizes for all types of projects, even a small container goes quite a long way. You only need a very thin layer of wax on your piece to achieve excellent results.

DID YOU KNOW?

Our waxes are made by one of the oldest family run furniture wax manufacturers in Canada.

A fine, museum-quality wax made from an old family recipe goes on like butter.

It is easy to apply, provides a durable finish with a beautiful shine and is almost odorless.

We also have clear wax with 100% natural essential oils for added aromatherapy while you wax in two relaxing scents – Fields of Lavender and Hill’s of Tuscany.

Enjoy our clear wax infused with 100% natural essential oils for added aromatherapy while waxing in two relaxing scents – Fields of Lavender and Hill’s of Tuscany.

Because this product contains only essential oils, the scents diffuse quickly and are only visible for the duration of the wax and slowly dissipate over a few days. These waxes will not fill the room with a strong aroma of either scent and will not yellow over time.

HOW IT WILL LOOK LIKE

When applied to your wooden or painted surface, the wax will be clear. After removing the excess and allowing it to cure for 5-10 minutes you can either leave it for a matte shine or buff to a nice shine! It’s your decision.

We also have a selection of colored waxes which will look different depending on the color you choose.

Black Wax instantly adds age and depth to any project! Simply apply a small amount to areas with ridges and indentations and let the wax work its magic!

For a less dramatic effect, try our espresso wax! Espresso Furniture Wax gives you the perfect amount of instant vintage age with a soft, subtle, rich, espresso brown look. Think sepia!

We also have Liming Wax for that stained, whitewashed or glazed look, Aging Wax gives you instant patina and also 3 Metallic Waxes! Copper, rose gold and pearl.

HEALING TIME

All waxes take about 30 days to cure. Use your pieces carefully within this time.

WHAT OTHER CAN IT BE USED FOR?

These waxes are very versatile. They can be used for furniture restoration, artwork and more! Can be used on concrete, cast iron and other materials to enhance their appearance.

Just like our beeswax, block wax can also be used as a resist between layers of paint.

Wax is a very popular choice for finishing milk paint and with the wide range of colors to choose from there is one for every look you want.

There are so many wonderful paint products on the market today that it can be difficult to understand their differences and when to use chalk paint, enamel paint, and milk paint. This post describes my experiences with these three types of paint and hopefully helps you decide what type of paint to use for your project.

Refreshing old furniture with paint is one of the easiest and most inexpensive ways to update a room and make it look like you spent a lot on decor. That’s why I started painting furniture years ago – I wanted that high-end look, but didn’t have the budget to match. Also, I happened to have a lot of older pieces of furniture that didn’t match my decor and I wanted to be eco-conscious and use what I already had instead of throwing away and buying all the new furnishings. I must warn you that painting furniture is very addictive! Once your supply of furniture is gone, you’ll start happily sifting through your neighbor’s trash, perusing your local buying and selling websites (daily), and perhaps becoming a regular at your local thrift store.

I’ve painted dozens of pieces of furniture with milk paint, chalk paint, and enamel mineral paint, and I can tell you I have a favorite, but I continue to use all three. To find out what it is, read to the end of the post.

milk color

Milk paint has been used for centuries and is one of the oldest colors ever used. It is derived from milk protein and comes in pigmented powder form. It contains only a few natural ingredients, including casein (milk protein), chalk, clay, natural pigments and limestone. Mix the powder with water to form a paste. On raw wood, milk color penetrates the wood and forms a bond with the wood. Even without additional patination, the natural pigments easily create a vintage or antique look that is desirable in peasant, French and other rustic styles (all my favorites!).

Manufacturer

Several companies that formulate and sell milk color, although I’ve only ever used Miss Mustard Seed (MMS) milk color. Her website has tons of inspirational photos and DIY projects and tutorials.

Homestead House is Canada’s only milk paint manufacturer and produces a range of beautifully colored paints including milk paint and fusion mineral paint.

advantages

Comes in powder form and can last for years (you only mix the amount you need for your project)

Produces a beautifully aged finish

Self-levels and creates a beautifully smooth finish

Pretty cheap

Has no harsh chemicals or strong odor (organic, biodegradable and free of VOCs)

MMS Milk Color is available in 25 beautifully curated colors

Disadvantages

Furniture preparation is key, especially for pieces with an existing finish (even more so if it’s glossy) or the paint may chip

Achieving a properly mixed color takes practice

Sanding between layers may be required

Multiple layers may be required

A top coat may be required

Furniture preparation for milk paint

Milk paint works best when applied to bare or aged wood. My standard prep for the average piece of furniture is to wash all the dirt off with a damp, soapy cloth, let dry, and lightly sand with 220-grit sandpaper (just to roughen the surface up a bit so the paint can adhere). Wipe away any sawdust residue. My soap of choice is actually dish soap, unless the bar feels greasy, in which case I use trisodium phosphate (TSP). Because of this, I’ve never had a problem with paint chipping using this method. Anything with a lacquer or high gloss finish will require a little extra prep, i.e. the use of “tie promoter”. MMS milk paint contains this product that you mix with your paint to help the paint adhere better to shinier surfaces. I would definitely still wash and sand lightly even while using this product.

The challenges of mixing the paint

Mixing the color was very challenging the first time as I couldn’t tell if I was getting the right consistency or not. Initially I tried mixing by hand with a small whisk but the mixture was lumpy and I found it left lumps on the piece of furniture I was finishing. Luckily I was able to sand away the grit after drying. I ended up buying a small battery powered blender from the paint manufacturer and that seemed to help a bit with the clumpiness.

The other problem I had with mixing was adding the right amount of water. I found that there were clumps when I added the specified amount of water, but the paint’s thickness and opacity were perfect. Adding a little more water helped me avoid the clumps, but the paint was so watery that I had to apply about 5-6 coats of paint to get the opacity I wanted. It made my little painting job a multi-day process. After some experience with milk paint I find that it usually takes 3 coats to get the desired finish. The challenges with lumpiness are still there, but I think that’s part of the process. However, I became more comfortable with this color and found that despite the challenges, I was able to get a nice finish on my first piece.

The top coat

Milk paint produces a matte finish, so if you want a silky feel (rather than a dry feel) or if you are going to place mugs or glasses on the surface, then a top coat is recommended. MMS Milk Paint sells a variety of furniture paints to protect your painted pieces. Their “Tough Coat” is a non-yellowing, water-based poly top coat that offers the highest level of protection. Several waxes are available and can be applied and then buffed smooth. Waxes usually have to be reapplied annually. Other finish options include beeswax and hemp oil. I adore the MMS furniture wax so much that I use it on all my painted furniture, whether I painted with milk paint or something else. I tend to only wax top surfaces as I don’t find it necessary to wax bottom shelves or faces or furniture legs.

Before picture

After 2 coats of milk paint

Bookcase painted in MMS Milk Paint (“Farmhouse White” and “Bergere” for the back)

Close-up of the edges I distressed with sandpaper

chalk paint

Chalk paint is a newer paint formulation developed by Annie Sloan in 1990. This color creates a chalky, aged look with a matte finish. Chalk paint differs from regular latex paint in that it contains gypsum or plaster of paris, which gives the paint some unique properties. Annie Sloan designed chalk paint to offer style and ease of use, starting the furniture repair trend that continues to this day. I use my standard furniture prep method above before painting with chalk paint. I’m a little obsessed with not accidentally chipping my pieces, so I spend the extra 10 minutes washing and lightly sanding them. However, the directions for this paint indicate that sanding and priming are not required, so you can just dip straight in if you prefer. I find that 2 coats of chalk paint is usually sufficient.

Manufacturer

Several manufacturers make chalk paint, but Annie Sloan is the gold standard for chalk paint. Their line consists of 42 beautiful colors that can be easily mixed together to form other beautiful colors.

You can even make your own chalk paint. Mountain Modern Life has an easy DIY recipe to turn regular latex paint into chalk paint.

advantages

Requires almost no preparatory work

Dries quickly and multiple coats can be applied in one day

Produces a beautiful matte finish that applies beautifully

Has no harsh chemicals or strong odor

have harsh chemicals or a strong odor. Sticks to most surfaces

Comes in 42 amazing colors

Disadvantages

Expensive

Dries very quickly, which can make work difficult (brush strokes become visible)

A top coat is definitely required

The painted surface wears out over time

Furniture preparation for chalk paint

Chalk paint can really be applied to any surface. I’ve even read blog posts about using it to paint upholstered furniture. For wood furniture I recommend using my standard prep for washing with a damp soapy cloth, let it dry, sand lightly with 220 grit sandpaper and wipe clean. This will ensure your paint doesn’t peel off.

Brush strokes with chalk paint

I have painted several pieces with Annie Sloan chalk paint and find that there are some differences between batches. I had a batch of paint that dried so quickly that I had to work at lightning speed to avoid sticking the surface as I continued. The brush strokes were clearly visible on this piece. To counteract this, I found that I could add a few drops of water to the paint to thin it out a bit, or I could apply the paint with a foam roller and then immediately go over it with my paintbrush to give it that natural hand brush look give see. I would not recommend just using one roller as the texture achieved with one roller does not lend itself to the vintage furniture look you may be trying to achieve.

Don’t skip the top coat

You should know that the finish this paint produces is very porous and chalks well. It definitely needs a top coat to protect it from drink rings, food stains and dirty fingerprints. I find that untreated surfaces even pick up the color from my clothes if I accidentally brush over them. And the color will also wear off over time, especially if it’s a piece that gets a lot of use, like a chair. As mentioned above, I use the MMS milk lacquer top coats and waxes for all my furniture finishing projects.

Cabinet I painted with Annie Sloan Chalk Paint

Easter egg painted with chalk paint

The door and coffee cart are both painted Paris Gray with Annie Sloan Chalk Paint

Fusion mineral paint

The latest addition to furniture paint is Fusion Mineral Paint, an acrylic paint that is eco-friendly and formulated for a durable finish with an integrated top coat. It requires almost no prep and is self-leveling, which in my opinion is the best quality paint can have. If you are a perfectionist and/or a slow painter you will appreciate this as it gives you complete control over your finish. In other words, it’s almost impossible to screw up this product. Like milk paint and chalk paint, it produces a matte finish, although I find the finish smoother and slightly silky. I usually apply two coats to get the opacity I want.

Fusion paint can also be aged in the same way as chalk paint, although due to the paint’s durability once cured, aging is best done shortly after painting or with the use of an aging wax. To do this, the wax is applied before painting by rubbing the wax on the areas that you want to wear later. This often includes edges and areas of detail.

To learn more about Fusion, read my blog post How I Painted My Piano with Fusion Mineral Paint or visit the Fusion website.

Manufacturer

Fusion is a trademarked product designed and manufactured in Canada by Homestead House.

advantages

Only minimal preparatory work is required

Has a built in top coat

Inexpensive

Incredible coverage (I painted my piano with a 22 CAD pot)

Eco-friendly and non-toxic

Self-levelling so easy to work with and produces a smooth, silky finish

Extremely durable, waterproof and dirt-repellent

Adheres well to most surfaces (including glossy)

Lasts 7 years in the original pot

Comes in over 50 colors including their new Metallics line

Disadvantages

Doesn’t have the aged, porous finish that some people prefer

The smoother surface has fewer nooks and crannies for antique wax to settle

Furniture preparation for mineral paint Fusion

Fusion mineral paint can be applied to any surface, although I recommend using my standard prep with a damp soapy cloth, sanding lightly with 220 grit sandpaper and wiping clean. If you are painting a glossy finish I recommend priming with Fusion’s Ultra Grip product as well. I used this on my piano for example because I’m a piano teacher and I absolutely didn’t want my piano to start chipping.

One last tip

I read this on Fusion Mineral Paint’s Facebook page and have not tested it myself. Enamel paint and water don’t mix well together and if you mix them the resulting paint job could be streaky. I therefore do not recommend adding water to this color to dilute it or to create a color wash. I also recommend only using brushes that are completely dry from previous use and washing. That little bit of water left in your brush could ruin your paint job.

My Fusion piano finished in Raw Silk

My son’s desk that I drew in Fusion’s “Midnight”.

I deleted the seat in Fusion’s “Ash”.

I painted this desk Fusion’s ‘Ash’, then applied white MMS wax to it for an aged look. The drawer front is finished with hemp oil.

So, when should you use chalk paint, enamel paint, and milk paint?

I now use Fusion mineral paint 90% of the time. The ease of use, super self-leveling power, and built-in top coat sealed the deal for me, and the low price is such a big plus too. I only use chalk paint when I need a specific color that I can’t find in the Fusion range. I rarely use milk color now because the fusion color is just so much easier to use. However, I love the finish I get from using milk color, but I find it time consuming to prepare and difficult to get the right consistency. Despite these challenges, I would definitely still use milky paint if I wanted to achieve a particularly aged or chipped look.

picture cabinets

I wanted to address a question I’m often asked: Can I use milk paint/chalk paint/enamel paint to paint kitchen cabinets? My answer is no, I recommend using a paint specially formulated for cabinets. My two favorites are Benjamin Moore Advance and C2 Cabinet and Trim Paint. These paints self-level to give a smooth finish and cure to produce a tough, durable finish needed in a kitchen. However, I wouldn’t hesitate to paint a bathroom vanity with Fusion mineral paint.

I hope this post has helped you decide when to use chalk paint, fusio paint, and milk paint for your own painted furniture projects. I am happy to answer questions about my experiences with these colors.

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A cheaper, easier and more durable alternative to chalk paint

For those of you who want the look of chalk paint without the expense and hassle, I have found a process that will give you the same look but without the high cost… You can even achieve the aged look with my better alternative to chalk paint of dark wax without the extra time and I’ll show you the best type of paint for wood furniture.

Why is this furniture technique better than using chalk paint and wax?

This product is much less expensive. I give a full cost breakdown in my post Why I Don’t Use Chalk Paint, showing the drastic cost of chalk paint versus my favorite furniture paint. Not only is it a lot cheaper, but it’s also easier to use. There is definitely a learning curve when it comes to waxing furniture. You can achieve the same dark wax look with much less effort using this technique. This product is also much more durable, providing a durable finish for years to come. This paint does not need to be sealed with wax. Did you know that unless sealed with wax, chalk paint will actually liquefy again if a cold drink is left on it? In contrast to chalk paint, this process gives you almost unlimited color options. This allows you to better match existing room details or match another piece of furniture. After all, supplies are much easier to find than going to a specialty store.

Further advantages of this technology can be found here.

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A better alternative to painting furniture with chalk – Accessories:

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Chalk Paint: Dark Wax Alternative Materials:

Valspar Clear Mixing Glaze and a Behr Ashwood sample pot (both optional).

Best Chalk Paint Alternative – The Process

1. Lightly sand your furniture

Many readers ask me how to varnish wooden furniture without sanding. Unfortunately, if you don’t sand, you risk wasting all your time and effort on paint that won’t stick.

Luckily, if done properly, the sanding shouldn’t take more than 5 minutes with very little effort on your part as you’re barely roughening the surface of the wood to pick up paint. You don’t sand to remove all the old paint as I explain in my post how to sand furniture in under 5 minutes.

After removing all hardware, sand your piece with a mouse sander (click here for my favorite low cost sander). Just gently walk over the surface to roughen it up a bit. You don’t want to try to remove the existing paint or stain, you just want to remove the shine.

Spend more time on scratches and dents when needed. When you’re done, wipe it off with a damp rag. See my posts on sanding furniture with an electric sander and the best sanders for wood furniture here.

2. How to prime furniture

I used Zinsser Bullseye 123 in white for this chest of drawers. This is a water-based tintable primer, meaning you can tint it like paint. This not only allows your primer to adhere well, but also aids in opacity through tinting. This will most likely save you an extra coat of paint. It also sets very well when drying, meaning it doesn’t show brush marks as easily.

Paint furniture white

For lighter projects I just use a white primer, just like in the tin. When putting together other white furniture, be sure to match it with the white on a color palette, as there are hundreds of shades of white. Click here for a post full of tips: Top Time-Saving Furniture Whitening Tips

Paint furniture black

For black or gray projects, I keep a gallon of gray primer on hand. If I were painting a piece of navy, I would tint my primer a slightly lighter shade of navy. A tinted primer minimizes the number of coats. (Your primer doesn’t have to match your paint color. It just needs to be a stepping stone to build on.) For more tips on painting furniture dark, click here.

Before you start any furniture project, be sure to download my FREE furniture painting tips for any project. Don’t start a project without them!

3. Latex Paint – The best alternative to chalk paint for furniture

The primer only needs 30 minutes to dry. When you’re done, use a roller to paint the piece like THIS. It also saves time on your entire project and gives you a much smoother finish than painting with a brush.

You can also add a product called Floetrol to your paint to minimize brush marks. I do this often and love the smooth finish I get every time. Just read the directions on the bottle for how much to add and mix.

As I mentioned in my post Why I Don’t Use Chalk Paint on Furniture, I disagree with several claims when many argue why one should use chalk paint versus regular paint. My experience is with high end brands of specialty chalk paint. I have not compared chalk paint reviews for the best chalk paint but I strongly believe that any paint with a chalk based paint component such as Valspar Chalk Paint and even Rustoleum Chalk Paint will be an inferior product.

Often one of the main criteria for the quality of the paint is whether it contains additives such as calcium carbonate (the main ingredient in many chalk paints and homemade chalk paint recipes). The more of these additives, the lower the shelf life of the product in the long run.

4. A better alternative to chalk wax

Say you want to achieve the same look as dark wax without the expense and hassle. After your coat of latex paint has dried, mix up a 50/50 mixture of Valspar Clear Glazing Mix and your paint sample container.

My sample color is Behr Ashwood (Home Depot) which is the same color as Valspar Beige Shadow (Lowe’s) depending on the color in the store you are at.

Once mixed paint it onto your dresser. See how I’ve obviously missed areas – that’s ok! It spreads when we go to swipe – this operation is failsafe! (The gray I use is Behr Cosmic Quest.)

Many readers have asked me where to buy chalk paint, but the beauty of this process is that all of the products are easily found at your local hardware store.

Once I had painted on the stripes and covered most of the piece, I took a baby wipe and started wiping it down. (Pampers seem to work fine for some reason). This is a really easy process as the glaze medium allows the paint to stay wet giving you plenty of time to work with it.

Simply wipe towards your piece with your baby wipes in long sweeps to achieve the look you want.

You can’t mess this up – just keep swiping until you get the look you want. I love how it gives it that vintage look and it works with any base color – you may just need to smudge more or less depending on the look you want. (Although I use a translucent medium, this process is actually called “color washing”.)

Should You Apply a Clear Coat to Painted Furniture?

For furniture that gets a lot of wear and tear, like our coffee table or my daughter’s desk, I added a few coats of General Finishes Flat Out Flat Clear Coat (check current price here) for extra durability. To see a video on how to use it click here: Best Chalk Paint Top Coat.

What I love about this clear coat is that it gives you the same shine as chalk paint. Just paint on the top coat with a foam brush like this one. These brushes are so cheap you can just throw them away when you’re done.

The best kind of paint for wooden furniture

If I hadn’t used this process the alternative would have been to wax with clear wax and then wax with dark wax to get this look. Both steps take a lot of time and there is a definite learning curve in growing.

As I mentioned in my post Why I Don’t Use Chalk Paint, waxed furniture needs maintenance through the occasional regrowing. This better alternative to chalk paint will keep your piece looking fabulous for decades without maintenance!

More furniture makeovers

I used the same process on these furniture makeovers and had amazing results. All of these pieces of furniture have sentimental value, so using this process guarantees that they will have a beautiful finish for years to come. You can see my best furniture reveals here: 25 Stunning Painted Furniture Before and After

How to imitate furniture (6 shades to choose from!)

Frequently Asked Questions: The best alternative to chalk paint

What is the most durable paint for furniture?

Latex is one of the most durable paints for furniture. There are oil-based paints that dry harder, but they’re a lot messier and the fumes are a problem.

Latex paint protects furniture well from moisture, and also has a certain elasticity, which prevents the paint from cracking when the furniture heats up over time. Chalk paint is not as durable in my opinion as it easily sands off compared to latex paint with a primer. As I have detailed here, chalk paint will also reflow if a drink is placed on it and it is not waxed properly.

What is the best brand of paint for wooden furniture?

My favorite furniture color is Sherwin Williams ProClassic. It’s a high performance latex that offers a spray on finish with a roller and self levels really well. I was also impressed with its opacity and durability as I mentioned in my post on furniture paint reviews. You also have hundreds if not thousands of colors to choose from, which is another benefit of using latex paint over chalk paint.

Should I use a brush or roller to paint furniture?

I get this question quite often and my answer is BOTH! For the vast majority of your paintable surface, I recommend using a roller. Not all rollers are created equal as some do not offer a very smooth finish. The best paint roller for furniture is the Behr 6″ Best Roller with 3/8″ pile.

Use a brush for more detailed aspects of your furniture, such as drawer edges, feet, and moldings. I like this brush set because it’s inexpensive while providing a smooth finish and I don’t have to worry about loose bristles getting into my paintwork.

Which color is best for wooden garden furniture?

Each type of latex paint has an exterior counterpart. Sherwin Williams also has a new house and fence paint that is extremely durable. If using a glaze on patio furniture I would go over it with an outdoor clear coat like this to ensure the elements don’t wash or damage the surface.

My top picks for spray painting hardware

For my favorite tips and tricks on how to get a flawless finish with spray paint every time, click here for your free checklist: The Best Tips and Tricks for Spraying Anything

Varnishing wooden furniture: ideas and tips

Now you have a piece of furniture that has the farmhouse look of chalk paint without the extra effort and expense, not to mention it will have a durable finish for years to come! For more inspiration, be sure to check out this gallery of painted furniture or check out the rest of my furniture flips.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLj5CHuuPLo&t=679s

☑️ My Best Furniture Painting Tips and Tricks Ever (FREE PRINTABLE) Don’t forget to download the FREE step-by-step printable checklist that shows you the exact process I’ve used on dozens of pieces of furniture and at the same time saves time and money!

Did you like this article? Be sure to share it with others. As always, feel free to download my free printable scriptures HERE. You have dozens of verses to choose from. Have a nice week!

Related Posts on Painting Furniture

Final Thoughts Chalk paint vs regular paint

There’s a reason latex paint has been around for so long. It has consistently provided a durable finish with unlimited color options. Using the technique outlined above, you can achieve the same look as chalk paint without the expense and hassle of waxing. Now it’s time for the only tricky part – picking the right paint color!

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Did you like this article? Be sure to share it with others. Have a nice week! Bless you, follow the fun here! Email Subscription | Instagram | Pinterest | Facebook | twitter blessing,

What are your thoughts? If you have any questions about your furniture projects, I’m happy to answer them in the comments section below!

Blessing,

Karen

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A better alternative to chalk paint – painting technique

Preparation is not a bad word! It is the basis for a successful painting experience! It’s easy and doesn’t take too much time. Everything you need to know is in this helpful link here and in this video too!

Every piece of furniture needs a little preparation – even if it’s just about cleaning. Think of it as an evaluation of your piece, you may not have to do much, but it’s better to start your project with the right foundation for it to last. Don’t worry – the preparation is easy! Follow these simple steps to ensure you get the best possible results every time. You may only need a quick wipe to remove dust and you may not need to do all of these steps, but if your piece requires it, be sure to follow in this order:

Most of the time you just have to

CLEAN -> PAINT

However, depending on your particular piece/surface and previous coating, you may need the following to be thorough.

CLEAN -> REMOVE WAX -> LIGHT ABRASIVE -> VARNISH

CLEAN

Using Fusions TSP Alternative will remove any grease or dust and ensure your piece is ready to accept color.

REMOVING WAX When you’re painting an old heirloom, it’s possible it was waxed long ago to protect it. You will want to remove wax on your piece with odorless solvent. If you suspect your piece has wax in it you can usually tell by sanding it lightly and if the sandpaper sticks and wax builds up you should stop and remove the wax with odorless solvent (mineral spirits)

LIGHT GRINDER

Sanding is only required for high gloss finishes or when trying to remove stubborn coatings such as Teflon or flame retardants.

COLOR

Paint it nice! Choose one of our beautiful colors, get inspired and paint it!

NO PRIMER REQUIRED – Most of the time

With Fusion Mineral Paint you don’t need a primer. If you’re trying to prevent bleed through or knot punch through, you need a special tannin-blocking primer called ZINSSER BIN’s shellac-based primer.

If your project is dark and you want to switch to a bright white color, consider using a transition color like Sterling for your first layer. These lighter mid-tones act as a primer for the color transition, making it easier to switch to pure white.

To block certain types of wood, such as mahogany, from bleeding through, we recommend one or two coats of a shellac-based primer such as Zinsser BIN! It’s white so keep that in mind if you plan on distressing your piece as you may need to reconsider the distressing technique. For particularly troublesome wood knots, apply pure shellac followed by Zinsser BIN, then apply Fusion Mineral Paint™. If pure shellac is not available, make sure you apply 2-3 coats of Zinsser BIN to the knots.