Long Arm Quilting Services Illinois? The 74 Correct Answer

Quilts are one of those things that families love to pass down through the generations. You probably have one in your linen closet right now that has been in use for decades, maybe even a century or more. If you happen to have a particularly old specimen that has remained in good condition, you may also have a gold mine on your hands.

A quick scroll through the selling options on eBay reveals prices ranging from $68 for a beautiful 1940s design to triple digits, like a 1930s pattern going up to $675. The older they are and the better their shape, the higher you can set the price. However, if you are serious about making money from inherited quilts, you need them to be “museum quality”. This not only means immaculate condition, but also linked to a specific epoch of history.

For example, in 1991 a quilt called the Reconciliation Quilt sold for a whopping $264,000. Made in 1867, the pattern reflected scenes of hope as the country began to heal from the Civil War. Although you may not be able to make quite as much money selling your own quilt, there are many examples of museum quality quilts on eBay that sell for thousands of dollars.

When you come across a potentially valuable quilt in your home or at a thrift store, there are a few things to consider. All People Quilt experts warn against dry cleaning – if it really needs a refreshment, a gentle hand wash with detergent is the best choice. Small repairs are also okay if you use fabrics like tulle or crepoline to preserve the integrity of the quilt.

The most important clue to whether you have a museum-quality quilt is the fabric and patterns. Something like the reconciliation quilt that tells a story is a good find. Star designs or nautical sailor patterns from the 18th century also seem to be very valuable. All People Quilt recommends reading up on the subject with Clues in the Calico by Barbara Brackman ($26.94, Amazon). Looking at outdated photos of quilts can also be a great way to find out what might really be available for big bucks. Check the American Quilter’s Society Directory for verified appraisers.

Of course, quilts can also be far too sentimental to really consider giving up, no matter how much money you might make from them. Still, it can be fun to learn more about how much a blanket is really worth!

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Quilts are expensive because of the labor required to make them. Quilts require pieces of fabric to be evenly cut and sewn together to create the basic shape of a quilt. Then this piece needs to be sewn together with batting, backing and binding to create a finished blanket. Some quilts even have topstitching that gives the quilt a sewn design. Add the cost of materials and the time it takes to market and sell this quilt, and you have to charge a higher price to cover all the costs and make a profit.

Quilters often have expensive sewing machines that allow them to add a variety of embroidery designs to quilts. These machines can cost hundreds, even thousands of dollars. This total cost is not factored into the price of a quilt, but must be paid off through the sale of quilts, so a portion of the sewing machine cost is factored into the price of each quilt.

If you compare all the steps required to make a quilt with, say, a plain comforter, you can see how much faster it is to sew a comforter and why it costs less. For a duvet, two large pieces of fabric need to be sewn together on 4 edges, with batting between them. A similar amount of fabric can be used, so this cost is about the same, but it takes far fewer hours to sew a bedspread.

>> Sell quilts successfully: 6 steps

EARN MONEY QUILTING

If you are a seamstress selling quilts, you need to charge a high enough price to ensure you get back the money you spend on your business for every hour you put into your business (hours x hourly wage). and make profit.

Here’s a QUILTING PRICE FORMULA to follow to ensure you’re covering your costs and getting the best… WITHOUT over-selling your quilts.

People who quilt for a hobby may not care about being paid (or receiving a decent wage) for all their hours. But if you’re trying to build a business so you don’t have to work for someone else, you need to pay yourself at least minimum wage, preferably more.

It also takes many more hours when making quilts for sale than when making quilts for friends and family who have requested one.

If you make quilts before you have buyers for them, you have to spend several hours doing this:

Photograph quilts professionally

List them online (on Etsy or your website)

Packing and shipping of the quilts

Etc.

A lot of time and money goes into running a quilt shop, aside from the quilt materials and the time it takes to sew a quilt.

A company must not only get back the money spent, but also make a profit.

QUILTS COST MORE IF SOLD THROUGH A STORE

If you are planning to sell your quilts through a retail store your prices must be even higher as the stores expect to buy your quilt at a discount so they can sell it to their customers at a higher price than they would at bought you. This will ensure they make money when they sell your quilt.

If you sell a quilt to a store for $500 and the store should sell it to their customers for $500, the store is not making any money.

So if you sell a quilt for $500, a retail store expects to be able to buy that quilt from you for $250 (wholesale price). If they then put the quilt back up to retail price ($500), they get paid back the $250 they spent and earn $250 to cover the cost of their business (e.g. profit.

So the wholesale price of your quilts must ensure you get back the money you spent to make that quilt and bring you a profit.

In this example, if $500 covers your expenses and hourly wage and gives you a profit, you want $500 to be your wholesale price. Since most retailers expect wholesale prices to be 50% below retail, you would need to mark this quilt at $1000 to get your retail price.

Retail price is what customers pay and wholesale price is what retailers pay.

I would not suggest selling your quilts wholesale through stores as labor intensive products are generally not appropriate. And that’s okay. If you can find outlets online (e.g. Etsy or your own website) or in person (e.g. craft fairs) to sell your quilts, you don’t need to wholesale.

In this article, I explain more about wholesale quilt prices and how to mark up your quilts instead.

HOW TO CUT YOUR COSTS

If you sell handmade quilts and find that your prices are too high (consumers are unwilling to pay them), you can lower your prices by lowering your costs.

Only you know how you spend your time and money on your business, so you need to take a closer look at those hours and spend and see where you can save.

Calculating the return on investment (ROI) for each expense can help you figure out what’s worth investing your time and money in, and what’s not.

For example, let’s say I spend extra money to buy high-quality organic cotton wool. This hitting increases my costs and thus my prices. But if the premium organic batting doesn’t help me make sales, I’m not getting a return on my investment. I would consider using a plain batting that I can buy in bulk at wholesale prices.

For simplicity, think of the return on investment as follows:

Does spending money on something directly lead to sales?

For example, do I make money by listing quilts on Etsy by spending money? Do I get sales from Etsy? If all of my sales are from craft fair sales, Etsy is not bringing me any returns and I would consider not putting any more money into it.

This also applies to your time. You would simply look at the hours you spend on a specific task in a week or month and how many sales were a direct result of those hours.

For example, if I spend an hour every day posting on Facebook and I want to get paid $20/hour, that’s $140 in salary I’m spending on Facebook. If nobody has interacted with my posts and no sales have resulted from my work on Facebook, then I’m not getting a return on my investment. I wouldn’t invest any more time in Facebook.

Of course, there are some tasks that won’t give you an immediate return on investment, but have the potential to do so. Watch these tasks closely to see if they help you move in the right direction.

For example, if I just started my Facebook page and spend 7 hours on it every week, I probably won’t see much engagement for the first few months. I would make sure I see some growth after a month or two or I won’t be paid back the $560 a month in wages.

Look at each task you’re spending time and/or money on and see if it directly helps you make sales. If it doesn’t, consider reducing it or eliminating it altogether to save on costs.

Lots of small cost savings can help you bring your prices down significantly.

Here are a few more ideas on how to cut costs in your quilting business:

FEWER PIECES

Of course, the more small pieces you use to create your quilts, the longer it will take to cut and sew those pieces together.

Instead of using lots of small squares, create larger sections of fabric that has more pattern or texture to add interest this way.

You can even build a quilting business based on your ability to mix and match patterns to create beautiful combinations. You could just use a patterned fabric for one side (and a large piece of fabric), a different patterned fabric for the back, and then a different pattern or color for the binding. Simply adding quilting can add the element of quilting instead of sewing hundreds of pieces together.

You could even focus on lightweight quilts so you can skip the batting, saving you on material and installation costs.

BUILD BIG (& BUY BIG)

Rather than each quilt being unique, create a design and sell that design over and over again. Not only does this technique allow you to buy your material in bulk and save money, but it also helps you speed up production.

If you want to sell unique pieces based on customer requests, charge more for these custom pieces as they will definitely cost you more to produce.

BLOCK TASKS

Creating a quilt from start to finish takes a lot longer than doing each step in bulk.

For example, I can cut pieces for 10-20 quilts at a time, then pin together pieces for each quilt in a different step, then sew all pieces for each quilt together in a different step, etc.

Instead of switching between stations, tools, and different concentration and skill levels, you stick with one station, one tool, and one skill (e.g. cutting) for an entire work day. This accelerates your production, which lowers your costs.

KNOW YOUR TARGET MARKET

You can’t try to sell your handmade quilts to the consumer who wants to go to Walmart and buy a $100 quilt; they are not your customers.

Knowing who you’re targeting doesn’t necessarily help you drive down your costs (although it can if you know exactly where to find them, how to market to them, and how to make that sale, since speed in these areas will drive your costs lowers to make a sale).

If you know your target market, you can calculate what your quilts are worth.

Imagine trying to sell a luxury car to someone who can’t afford it and just wants a vehicle to get them from A to B. In order to actually sell him that luxury car, you have to lower your price to match their budget, and then you’re not making any money.

But if you’re making luxury cars and you’re targeting consumers who care about those high-end details and are less concerned with price, then you’ve got the product right for the consumer.

This is what you need to do when it comes to your quilts.

Find a target market who is willing and able to spend money on a handmade quilt, find out what matters most to them when it comes to a quilt, and create quilts for them. Then customize the quilt to the consumer.

Check out HOW TO FIND A CLIENT GOLDMINE to help you choose the right target market for your business.

I hope this article helped explain why quilts cost so much 🙂

This article will help you properly evaluate your quilts.

You might also be interested in:

After investing hours making a quilt, you want to see a financial return. Pricing a handmade quilt doesn’t have to be a mystery: run the numbers, look at the time and materials you put into the work, and determine what it takes to turn a profit.

The quilt pricing formula

The pricing of a quilt is like any other company. You want to recoup your expenses and make a profit. The quilt must generate enough revenue to cover both. According to Daydreams of Quilt, the general formula for selling a handmade product is:

(shipping cost + time) x 2 = wholesale x 2 = retail

Your material costs should include all materials, including:

fabric for top

fabric for the base

fabric to tie

Hit

thread

sample

What is often overlooked is the cost of the equipment. Your sewing machine, rotary cutter, pins, cutting board, scissors, etc. are all accessories. They’re start-up costs that eat up profits initially and need to be replaced across multiple projects. If you need to buy something special for a project, this must be taken into account.

Hand quilting vs. long arm quilting

You’ve assembled your quilt, but will you be hand quilting too? There is a difference. If you plan to hand quilt, you need to determine how much your time is worth. This is in addition to the time you’ve already spent putting it together.

Many quilters send their quilts to a long sleeve quilting service. These services are usually charged per square inch.

Woodside Quilting explains that quilting costs can range from 2 to 5 cents per square inch. The range of these prices is based on the complexity of the quilt. This adds to the overall price of the quilt.

Run the numbers and set your prize

What does it all mean? Let’s put numbers into the quilt pricing formula, let’s say you assemble and quilt it yourself to calculate a 72″ x 72″ quilt.

Material cost = $135

Time at $15 per hour x 15 hours = $225

Now we will include these numbers in the formula.

($135 + $225) x 2 = wholesale ($720) x 2 = retail ($1,440)

Using the formula, you can see exactly what you need to calculate in order to not only recoup your expenses, but also make a profit.

What if you can stitch but can’t quilt? That will increase the cost. For a 72″ x 72″ quilt, it will cost you at least $103 to have it stitched by a service (at 2 cents per square inch). And if it’s a complicated quilt, it might cost more. That brings your cost of supplies and labor to at least $463.

As noted in Daydreams of Quilt, you may not always be able to follow the quilt pricing formula when the cost becomes too high for the market. Some crafters can only sell their wares for the cost of supplies plus a markup for their time.

Will the market bear your price?

You have evaluated your quilt, now you want to sell it. Sewing is Cool states that a queen-size quilt starts at around $350 and can go as high as $1,500. A baby blanket costs between $150 and $400. There’s a lot of competition.

Visit online marketplaces and see what your competitors’ prices are like. You may find that you are right in line and competitive. If not, reconsider your pricing. Set a deadline for a sale. If your quilt doesn’t sell by that date, consider lowering your price.

Give a gift that will last a lifetime with the help of a professional quilter. Skilled in the art of sewing, quilters focus on making quilts, which are front-and-back bedspreads filled with batting. Typically, the top of the quilt is made up of several scraps of fabric sewn together in traditional patterns. Just as popular as traditional styles are modern designs, memory quilts, photo quilts, and garment (or t-shirt) quilts.

The complexity of the quilt and pattern, the quilt size, the skill of the quilter, and the materials used all affect the cost of a new quilt. Quilts are often given as gifts on important occasions such as the birth of a child, a wedding, a milestone wedding anniversary or graduation – and then passed on by the family. If you own a quilt or want to give it as a gift, here are the cost factors involved in making a quilt.

Many quilters charge per square inch of the finished quilt. Cost includes factors such as the fabric used, the skill required, the time required for the technique, the materials required, the quality of the batting, and more. Many traditional quilters charge between 3 cents and 15 cents per square inch, says Katherine Bennett of Kat’s Out o’the Bag in Wilmington, North Carolina, with the price range reflecting the factors that go into the quilt.

The larger the quilt and the more intricate the pattern, the higher the overall cost. Below are some examples of how size and design impact costs. Size is the key differentiator in the cost of two quilted edge quilts designed by Sue Simon of Sam ‘n’ Baby Studio in Garland, Texas, while the quatrefoil quilt – although only a twin – costs more due to the added complexity.

T-shirt quilts

T-shirt quilts are trending as a thoughtful gift or keepsake for a loved one. T-shirts are sewn into the pattern of the quilt, turning special clothing into a quilt. The quilter preps the shirts of your choice with a lightweight, fusible interlining to prevent stretching and provide stability, explains Jill Humphreys of Sew What in Fort Worth, Texas.

A variable t-shirt quilt is made by varying the size of the t-shirt square, Sew What’s Humphreys explains, with sashes between the blocks. The blocks are typically the same width but different lengths. Variable t-shirt patterns may cost more due to the extra work involved. Here are examples of Humphreys of Sew What costs:

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One of the biggest challenges when starting out as a quilter is figuring out how to value a quilt you’re going to sell.

Trying to compete with store-bought quilts may tempt you to sell your quilts as cheaply as they do in the big stores, but the value of handmade quilts far exceeds what can be found in stores.

This post explains my simple quilt pricing formula and why handmade items are more expensive than something you can find in a store.

About quilt prices

First, let’s go through some frequently asked questions about quilt pricing.

If you are new to selling your handmade quilts, I suggest making your own quilt price chart and using that as a guide for our pricing.

Are handmade quilts valuable?

In a word, yes! Not only is the material expensive, your time and creativity are also very valuable. Quilting is an art form and the fabric is your canvas. Don’t underestimate your skills and time.

What is the average price of a handmade quilt?

The average price depends on the complexity of the design, the materials used and the size of the quilt. In my experience, the most popular size is a quilt (about 60″ x 60″) and the average price is around $400.

Here are the average prices of the other popular sizes:

Baby (30″ x 50″): $275

Twin Room (70″ x 90″): $500

Double/Full (85″ x 108″): $700

Queen (90″ x 108″): $800

King (110″ x 108″): $1,200

How much should I charge to make a quilt?

I’ll address this question in more detail later, but I want to stress that the time and effort you put into your beautiful quilts deserves a reward.

Calculate the cost of materials, set an hourly rate for your labor, calculate shipping costs if you’re selling online, and add up any overhead you may have.

Why do handmade quilts cost so much?

When I get requests for custom quilts, this is the number one question I get from people. Remember, when someone asks you about it, they usually don’t mean to insult you. Most people just don’t understand everything that goes into making a quilt.

When purchasing a handmade quilt, your customers pay for all materials used and pay you for your design time and labor from start to finish. A lot of time and effort goes into creating a quilt, which should be reflected in the price you set for your work.

Prices for handmade quilts broken down

Now let’s get into the nitty-gritty of quilt pricing and how to break down your costs and fees. Each breakdown will look different, so use this more as a guide and keep your goals in mind when setting your prices.

To give you an idea of ​​what I mean by breakdown, here is a list of all the different steps and timeframes I consider when preparing a quote:

design time

shopping time

material costs

Time to cut materials

sew quilt

sewing the back

ALL ironing and ironing

Cutting the cotton

craft time

Design time for quilt patterns

Quilting the quilt

Cutting and aligning the quilt

Creating the Binding

attaching the binding

Cut off all threads and loose threads

Shipping

Last but not least, roll up the entire quilt with lint to remove any lint, hair, or threads

Other factors to consider in your overhead pricing include:

Quilt design software cost

sewing machine cost

Material and tooling costs, including thread, bobbins, needles, scissors, cutting mats, etc.

advertising costs

Website Costs (Whether you sell on your own website or a platform like Etsy, there are costs associated with selling online.)

Rent: Some quilters rent a space instead of setting up at home, or rent a long arm machine to make your quilt designs.

Now, all that aside, let’s just break down the material cost of a throw size quilt. This list is generalized as the cost of fabrics and materials depends on where you buy your fabric, whether you can shop on clearance or wholesale.

Litter Size Quilt Material Cost

Pattern: $12

Fabric: 8 yards @ $12 per yard, $96

Batting: 60″ x 60″ litter size pre-cut batting, $21

Backing Fabric: 4 yards @ $12 per yard, $48

Connective tissue: ½ yard @ $12 per yard, $6

Total cost for materials only: $183

Fabric requirements and sizing also play an important role in determining the total material cost for a quilt. You can easily plug your mileage into this formula and get a rough estimate of how much your materials will cost.

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How to choose a free motion quilting foot and 5 options to consider

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The 21 best quilt blogs on the web for 2021

What is the quilt pricing formula?

How much does a handmade quilt cost? I’ll show you my simple formula for formulating a price quote. You can use this as a guide for your pricing formula or come up with your own. That’s the fun part of selling your own goods – YOU are in charge.

Materials: Total cost of all materials from start to finish.

Time: Choose an hourly rate. Remember all the steps we discussed earlier? Add all of this to your total time spent. Don’t sell yourself short because your time is valuable and you should be able to bill for every step. Calculate how long it will probably take to create the quilt. For example, if you charge $20 an hour and spend 20 hours on a quilt, your total charge for your time is $400.

Tip: One option for your plan is to charge different hourly rates for different steps in the process. For example, you could charge $15 to cut and assemble the quilt top and then $25 to quilt the quilt. That decision is entirely up to you and what you’re comfortable charging your customers for.

Overhead: Add up all of the listing fees, transaction fees, website costs, and other miscellaneous overhead fees that we discussed earlier that you want to include.

Shipping: This includes all shipping materials (box or mailer, packing materials, stickers, thank you card and shipping label)

Here is the formula to use once you have calculated everything:

Materials + time + overhead + shipping = quilt price

See! Easy right? It’s going to take a little time to figure out the cost of everything and decide how much you’re comfortable charging. But once you figure it out for a quilt, the next project proposal will be easier. You can even try a practice offer just to challenge yourself to calculate a total price for quilts.

How much does it cost to fix a quilt?

Have you ever been contacted by someone asking you if you’d be willing to repair a vintage quilt? I know this might seem a little intimidating, but if you’re up to the challenge, here’s how you can bill for your repair services.

First you want to assess the damage to the quilt and how much material needs to be replaced or added. Then just use the quilt pricing formula we just discussed. You may also want to develop a specific “fix rate” for this type of service.

Cost of completing quilts

If you don’t feel comfortable or don’t have time to finish a quilt yourself, there are hundreds of long arm quilters who build an entire business around quilting (finishing) quilts for others.

They usually charge per square inch, and depending on the complexity of the quilting they are doing, this price per square inch will increase. For example, if you opt for a basic pantograph (a single design that is repeated across the entire quilt), you will likely pay less than you would for a custom quilt design. Here’s an idea of ​​what long sleeve quilting service fees will be:

Pantograph: $0.01 to $0.03 per square inch

Edge to Edge: $0.03 to $0.04 per square inch

Basic Custom Quilting: $0.04 to $0.05 per square inch

Complex/Heirloom Custom Quilting: $0.06 to $0.07 per square inch

To calculate the total cost of long sleeve quilting, take the width of your quilt, multiply it by the length, and then multiply that total by the price per square inch.

Width x Length x Cost per Square Inch = Total

Quilting is such a rewarding craft. The most important thing I want to take away from this post for you, my fellow quilters, is to never underestimate your skills and time.

You work hard, put your heart and skills into these beautiful pieces of art. Don’t let anyone tell you how much you “should” charge or that you are “overcharging”.

I hope my simple formulas help you sell your art to the world.

What is a memory quilt?

Memory quilts are a collection of special garments put together to celebrate important milestones, special events or the life of a loved one.

Most memory quilts are typically made from garments collected over a period of many years. Each quilt takes on the personality of the personal belongings and features achievements, styles, events and occasions that celebrate each individual’s unique journey.

At QuiltKeepsake we have made thousands of commemorative quilts and each one has its own unique design and twist. Each quilt is unique, but one of our specialties is incorporating fabric items that make each quilt a truly one-of-a-kind keepsake. For example, we have made quilts from military uniforms, flags, ties, wedding dresses, prom caps, suits and mumus to name just a few of the non-standard garments that people would like sewn into their commemorative quilt.

Why make a memory quilt?

There are many reasons people make memory quilts, but for most people memory quilts solve one of three problems:

What do I do with someone’s unique clothing when it has reached the end of its useful life (eg.

How to keep mementos of special events without having to pile up years old clothes (e.g. what do I do with all the kids league and gym clothes we’ve collected over the years but don’t wear)

What to do with baby items, athletic shirts or jerseys, or special occasion clothing is often difficult to separate because of their sentimental value (i.e. I love this shirt and what I remember from that time and want to make sure I have it at least keep a piece of it)

By utilizing small, decorative pieces of each item throughout the quilt, each special item is preserved and remembered in a beautifully customized keepsake.

Different types of memory quilts

Most memory quilts can be broken down into 3 main categories.

T-shirt quilts are a great way to store and use a collection of t-shirts, sweatshirts, or long-sleeved shirts. These quilts are very popular for college graduation, birthday and anniversary gifts.

Memorial quilts are memorial gifts given to spouses, siblings, and children following the death of a family member or friend. Memorial quilts can contain many types of garments, including dresses, suits, hats, ties, and other unique items.

Baby clothing quilts made from clothes from children’s early years make great Mother’s Day gifts. Special outfits, one-piece suits, socks and even bibs can be incorporated into a special memory blanket.

Our t-shirt quilt company makes sure to offer a quality end product at a fair price. All materials, except your t-shirts, are included in the price.

The base price for a Sashed Quilt is $18.00 per t-shirt square.

The double border t-shirt quilt, as shown in the fire department quilt, is $20.00 per square.

The base price per t-shirt square for a framed quilt is $22.00.

The double border quilt and framed quilt are larger than the sizes shown.

There is an additional charge of $10.00 per square for combining pieces from different shirts to make a square or if additional pieces are needed to make the t-shirt large enough. The squares end at 14 1/2″, so if your design is larger, some of it will be cut off.

Your shirt blanket will be shipped via FedEx and costs $25-$30** per blanket, depending on the size of the blanket and your location. Sales tax will be added to all quilts shipped to any location in Texas.

A $100 deposit is required and can be paid by check*, money order, or online through PayPal. Or you can call me with your credit card number.

When your t-shirt quilt is ready I will email you asking for the balance including shipping costs. If paying by check, please allow 10 days for the check to clear before I ship your t-shirt quilt. If you use Paypal or a credit card I can ship your quilt sooner.

If you live in the Houston area and would like to bring your t-shirts, please contact me to set up an appointment. Our t-shirt quilt makers look forward to seeing you in the studio to work out the quilting details. Otherwise, please go to the Order Form page and follow the instructions to ship your t-shirts.

* Checks should be made payable to “Sharon Dixon”.

** $25-$30 shipping applies to the contiguous United States.

For some reason, every time I tell a quilt muggle that I’m a quilter, they all spread their arms wide, their eyes go wide and they’re like, “Omg, do you have one of those big quilting machines?!” I laugh every time (which might make me a horrible person, but I’m entertained that so many people do this when I haven’t met a quilt muggle who could EXPLAIN the “big quilting machine” to me). As you might have guessed, yes, I have a “big quilting machine,” and I know many, many quilters who wish they had long sleeves. But should they?

Is a long sleeve right for you?

Her. Real Talk: Not everyone needs a long sleeve. I know they’re impressive and all, and crazy longarm company props that make everyone think they need one, but… (please remember this is my opinion. At the end of the day, only YOU can decide whether owning a long sleeve is your best choice)

example 1

Let me paint a picture: Quilting Rockstar 1 takes over the Free Motion Quilting Academy, falls head over heels into free motion quilting and now, instead of piecing together several bodices each month, it finishes slightly fewer bodices each month, but still takes those bodices to the end Perfection because she completes it herself. She tries on a long sleeve at a show, saves up to buy one, and when she makes the purchase she quilts more than ever because she’s so happy and so damn pleased with herself.

Spoiler: This rock star is a PERFECT person to own a long sleeve. Why? Because she was already a keen seamstress AND quilter, the long sleeve makes it easier to do what she was already doing.

example 2

Here’s another picture: Quilting Rockstar 2 loves quilting. She loves looking at pictures of quilts, she loves stroking her fabric and she loves the look of free motion quilting. But this rock star has a lot of commitments that take up her time (job, kids, family, other stuff, etc.), so she only gets a few hours a week at her sewing machine if she’s lucky. However, she’s dying to finish her own quilts, and when she goes to a show and has fun messing around with a long arm, she decides THIS is the answer to her quilting problems (not finishing enough quilts) and she takes advantage of it of the show deal on site!

Unfortunately, even though her Longarm is set up, a few months later it’s buried under piles of fabric and half-finished projects, and she’s never really turned it on, let alone tried it out. What went wrong?

A warning

Unfortunately, Rockstar 2’s story is one I hear a lot. This woman is an amazing quilter, but she’s already at an overwhelming stage in her life and bought a long sleeve before she even knew if she liked free motion quilting or finished her own quilts. She craves more sewing time, but instead of figuring out what to rearrange or cut from her schedule, she sought the “quick fix” of a new tool. Or, maybe worse, she succumbed to the message somewhere inside that owning a long sleeve would prove she’s a serious quilter, despite being too busy to sew much.

I see, hear and feel more and more of this message – that owning a longarm proves something. On the one hand I get it – that providing space and money is no small matter, but status symbols are dangerous. So, just in case you need to hear it:

Your worth, excellence, and awesomeness as a quilter is not defined by how much time you spend sewing or how many cool machines you own. The most important thing is that you enjoy quilting with whatever time, ability, and dexterity you have.

Serious. Quilting is about enjoying it. Not to make show quilts and not to prove how serious you are by buying a long sleeve. Hope this has just freed some of you.

Now, if I haven’t totally put you off by yelling about your worth as a quilter, let’s get practical:

Things to think about before you buy

If you’ve tried long arms at the shows and been fond of playing around and think you might want to make that big investment, let’s look at a few practical things to consider before jumping in:

Do you like free motion quilting? Serious. Did you take a course? Have you really spent time investing in these skills? Did you get super excited to finish your own quilts in your own way? I know some people are “just computerized,” but for the vast majority of long arm buyers, you need to be able to USE (aka hand guide) the thing. Knowing that you have the skills and passion for your household is a good indicator that those skills and passion will translate into your work on your long arm. (Looking for an effective, comprehensive way to learn free motion quilting? I’m biased, but I highly recommend the Free Motion Quilting Academy.) Do you make a fair amount of quilting? If you only sew a handful of quilts a year, it makes a lot more sense to do household quilting or check quilting as it would just take too long to get your money out of your long sleeve. However, if you sew at least one or two quilts a month on average (or more!!) owning a long sleeve could make A LOT of sense for you! Are these duvets big? Throw quilts and smaller ones are fairly easy to finish on your house, but only a few double, queen, or king quilts a year are a lot easier to finish on a frame. do you have the space As I alluded to above, quilts smaller than a double bed are made quite reasonably on a home sewing machine. Therefore, for a longarm to be most useful, it needs to have at least a 10-12 foot frame (minimum 12 if you have a king bed). Basically, you can expect this machine to take up a large space in your home as you will likely need access to the sides and rear of the machine, as well as the front. Do you have the money? Y’all, these things are the price of a car. And honestly, to some extent, but it’s still a big pile of chedda. Can you invest that much money in your hobby and get enough joy and benefit from the machine?

If you, my dear Rockstar, have the skills (aka you know you like the quilting process/fmq), time, passion, space and money in your life then you are an excellent candidate for a long sleeve purchase! You’re far more likely to be delighted with your purchase and feel like it was a good investment!

But I still want it

However, if you can’t answer yes to most (hopefully all) of the above questions and are wrestling with the desire to have a long arm, let me recommend a few next steps:

Develop your quilting skills. If you rely on your own skills before making the big purchase, you’re more likely to eagerly (even recklessly) turn that pup on and get going than feel overwhelmed or scared when the hired guys leave (or you use your screwdriver) . one way) . As mentioned above, I offer the Free Motion Quilting Academy, but you can also click here to sign up for my Top 3 Tips for Successful Free Motion Quilting Make Time. If you’re hoping that a long sleeve will magically make you a more productive quilter, then you’re probably wrong. There’s a learning curve with a long arm, and unless you already have some quilting skills and are taking the time to quilt your bodices, a big ol’ machine isn’t a silver bullet. However, YOU can definitely make YOURSELF more productive as a quilter! Start planning more time for this thing you love so that when you buy a long sleeve in the future you are really ready to take the step and enjoy it to the fullest. I can’t wave a magic wand and enlarge your house, but you could give your current house a creative makeover or consider moving. These are BIG BIG steps, however, so I encourage you to have some real conversations with your family/significant partner to ensure this is the best decision for everyone before you get a sign in the yard Set up Thrifty. Feel like you’re the perfect fit for a long sleeve, but need ten grand (or twenty…or thirty…)? Talk about a good budget motivator! lol Take a look at your household expenses and see if there’s a way to systematically and gradually save up for a big ol’ long arm. Cut out coupons, have a flea market, eat a little less, skip the Target Dollar Spot or Starbucks Latte, etc. to get the moolah you need to bring baby home!

Final Thoughts

The bottom line is that when you buy a long sleeve, I want you to love it! Rock stars don’t have time for buyer regrets, so I’d rather slow you down a notch or two and watch you have the time of your life later. Long sleeve shirts are AMAZING and I love having one so if and when the time comes I’m super excited you have one too! But if a long sleeve just isn’t best for you, remember, you’re a fucking rock star! You don’t need a big device to “prove” it!

And finally, if you have a long sleeve that you’re not sure about or maybe you’ve never used before, be sure to check out my top 3 tips for free motion quilting success to get started today and don’t miss out on Free Motion Quilting Academy , where I’ll take you from a beginner (probably scared or overwhelmed) free motion quilter to a confident, intermediate quilter in just a few weeks!

PS HandiQuilter have now released the Moxie Longarm – a perfect machine for beginners. Click here if you want a long arm and want to learn more about this great machine.

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If you’re serious about quilting, you might want to consider getting a quilting machine. You’ll probably also start checking prices to see what’s in store for you. Luckily for you, quilting machines come in a variety of price ranges, allowing almost anyone to take their hobby more seriously.

How much do quilting machines cost?

Quilting machines can range in price from as little as $150 to $40,000 and up depending on the additional accessories you may wish to purchase.

However, the price is highly dependent on what type of quilting machine you are looking for. Do you want a long arm quilting machine or a more traditional quilter sewing machine? (Scroll down to see what the difference is.)

Longarm quilting machines tend to be more expensive than traditional quilter sewing machines. They can be found for anywhere from $5,000 to $40,000.

tend to be more expensive than traditional quilter sewing machines. They can be found for anywhere from $5,000 to $40,000. Traditional quilting machines, on the other hand, can be found on Amazon for as little as $150 but can go as high as $10,000 or more.

Prices for different brands of long arm quilting machines

Note that these prices are approximate only and are quoted in US dollars. Also remember that these prices do not always include the frame.

Brand Price range View Grace $3,500-$11,000 View King Quilter $4,000-$6,000 View Consew $4,000-$7,000 View Gamill $10,000-$30,000 View Millie $11,000-$21,000 View Handi Quilter $12,000-$30,000 View Bernina $12,000.00 View

Can you buy a longarm quilting machine online?

Yes, definitely, although it depends on which brand you want to buy. Some brands sell most of their machines through dealers who have physical stores. They don’t allow online sales for specific models, and they don’t even allow dealerships to advertise prices online.

However, there are many others who will sell you a machine online. Here are a few to get you started:

SewingsMachinePlus – sells a range of different long arm machines including the Juki, Grace, Tin Lizzie, HandiQuilter and King Quilter. They are family owned and have been in business for over 50 years.

Amazon – Amazon doesn’t sell a wide range but they do have some Grace quilting machines like the Q’nique 15 and also the Juki TL 2010Q.

So what is the difference between a longarm and a quilting machine?

Long arm machines:

don’t have feed dogs

can quilt larger quilts

quilts faster than conventional machines

able to perform larger sweeping movements

less stress on the body

can only do free motion quilting or ruler quilting, i.e. cannot join blocks or do general sewing

usually performed while standing

The machine moves, not the quilt

takes up much more space than a regular quilting machine

In the picture below you can see an example of what a long arm quilting machine looks like. This is available from Sewing Machines Plus.

Quilting sewing machines

have food dogs

can only quilt small sections at a time

Quilting takes longer than on a long arm machine

able to assemble blocks and perform other general sewing tasks

usually performed while seated

The quilt moves, not the machine

smaller and more compact than a long sleeve

The image below shows an example of a traditional style quilting machine. I have one of those Janome machines, although it’s an older model. It has a nice wide neck so you can get a big quilt in it just by rolling it up.

You can get this here on Amazon.

Why are long arm quilting machines more expensive?

Longarm quilting machines are made for serious quilters. The machines are larger (in fact, they can take up quite a bit of space) and are specialized to perform a specific task.

They allow you to quilt larger quilts because the quilt sits on a frame and you can move the machine across the quilt, allowing you to reach more areas much faster.

Why is it so difficult to get a price on a long arm quilting machine?

It can sometimes be difficult to find prices for long arm quilting machines. The seller will be a bit reluctant to release the price because there are so many add-ons to throw into the mix.

Also keep in mind that the base price for a long arm quilting machine usually means just the machine.

This means there is an extra charge for the frame as it comes in different sizes – for example 10ft, 12ft. Depending on what you have chosen, the price will change.

In addition to the additional cost of the frame, you may incur additional costs for any extras you may need or want, including:

Laser Light Kit

Touchscreen display upgrade

optional rear handles

Quilt robot system

Warranty Upgrades

wheel casters

slide rail kit

laser pen

ruler base

Hooping feet set

One of the biggest additional costs is the quilting robot software. This is software that allows your machine to stitch out the patterns for you. In other words, if you don’t want to stand there and manually quilt your pattern, you can let your machine do it instead.

This software comes at a steep price. For example, Pro-Stitcher costs around $10,000!

Even if your machine and frame is around $6000, you’re looking at $16,000 with the software. Oops!

Quilting sewing machines

Most people who engage in quilting usually stick with their regular sewing machine and it will work just fine, but you can purchase sewing machines made specifically for quilters. These are much cheaper than a longarm quilting machine and are therefore the most common type of machine used by quilters.

These look and function exactly like a sewing machine, but there are a number of features that set them apart from regular sewing machines. These include:

Wider Neck – This is the distance between the needle and the inside of the machine. The wider the neck, the better. You will still need to roll up the quilt to fit the neck, but the wider this gap, the larger the quilt and the more room you have to quilt larger patterns. You can see in the picture below that this sewing machine has a very small neck and would not be a good choice for a quilter.

Now compare that to the Janome machine below with its nice wide throat.

Extension table – An extension table allows you to lay out the quilt more evenly and give the quilt better support so it doesn’t drag as much on the base of the machine. Almost all quilting machines today are equipped with an extension table or are available as an optional accessory. In the picture below you can see the Sew Steady Grow Table, which you can get here on Amazon.

Foot Options – Most quilting machines come with a quarter-inch joining foot and at least one free-motion foot. Here’s an example with a guide to help you line up your fabric on the side so you don’t bend.

Quilt Stitches – On some quilting machines you may find specific quilt stitches set up in the software. For example, the Brother Dream Machine has 30 different quilt stitch options to choose from.

Sewing Plate – As a quilter, it’s always nice to see a quarter-inch mark on a machine’s sewing plate, but unfortunately this is not the case with standard sewing machines. Quilting machines, on the other hand, usually have a quarter-inch mark, or at least have an optional accessory plate that you can buy with a quarter-inch mark. For example, the Brother Dream Machine has a quarter inch bobbin cover as you can see in the image below and you can see a quarter inch mark on the steel plate just behind the needle.

Prices for quilting machines

In the table below you can see some prices for some of the most popular quilting machines.

Note that prices are approximate.

Machine price See Juki TL-2010Q $1000 See Janome MC6650 $1600 See Singer Confidence Quilter $270 See

What about a center arm machine?

Midarm is a relatively new term in the world of quilting machines and can mean different things to different manufacturers.

As Leah Day says, it can be confusing:

Medium arm is a term commonly used to describe either a semi-industrial lockstitch home sewing machine OR a long arm with a smaller arm. The term is used randomly depending on who you’re talking to, making it very confusing… Leah Day

A center arm quilting machine is smaller than a long arm quilting machine. They look a lot like a regular sewing machine, but are generally larger and more industrial looking.

They may also be oriented differently if you are looking at the edge of the machine instead of the front. You can see what that looks like in the image below. This is the Sweet Sixteen Midarm machine that you can see over at SewingMachinesPlus.

If you are considering getting a center arm machine, first determine whether or not it has a feed dog. If it has a feed dog, you can probably use it for assembly as well as free motion quilting. If it doesn’t have a feed dog, your machine only allows quilting. You will also need a sewing machine for assembly and machine binding.

Center arms are generally more expensive than the more traditional quilting machine, although this is not always the case.

Written by Carol Benton, published June 21, 2022, 10:00 am

The best sewing machine for quilting is one that suits both the quilter’s expertise and budget while offering features and functions that allow sewing large, bulky materials. In addition to quilting, many quilters engage in sewing garments, home accessories, and craft projects. Versatile sewing machines are just the ticket for these seamstresses. When shopping for sewing machines, they may be looking for built-in decorative stitches, as well as buttonhole stitches and monogram fonts.

On the other hand, serious quilters are looking for high-speed machines that produce only straight stitches for quilting. Additionally, they can select models that offer exceptionally large neck room and extended work tables to accommodate the bulky materials of large quilts. Here are our tips for every quilter’s needs.

How we picked the best sewing machines for quilting

To begin our search for the best sewing machines for quilting, we read the product descriptions and specifications of 14 sewing and quilting machines from five different manufacturers. From this research, we selected six machines for our recommendation list. To identify them, we delved deeper into the details, features, and specifications described on manufacturers’ websites. These companies are respected leaders in the manufacture of sewing and quilting machines; These include Singer, Brother, Janome and Juki. Besides reading the product descriptions, we gathered more information about the machines from critical and customer reviews and the answers to FAQs.

We considered both computerized and mechanical sewing machines for quilting, with particular attention to automatic features that save the user time and effort. In addition, we looked for machines with wide extension tables to accommodate the large panels of fabric required for quilt making projects. Knowing that the quilter will need to maneuver the bulky fabric through the machine, we took into account the neck size of each machine. Other factors included the availability of quilting feet, quilting guide bars, and drop-feed functionality for free-motion sewing. While we didn’t limit our selection to machines with low price points, we did consider value and cost in our selection process.

What you should consider before buying a sewing machine for quilting

Quilting is an ancient decorative art, dating back to medieval times in Europe and earlier centuries in the Middle East and Asia. Today, millions of seamstresses engage in the art of quilting to create useful comforters that also exist as works of art and become family heirlooms for generations to come. For quilters, sewing machines with special features offer the best tools for their craft. Before choosing a machine for quilting, buyers should consider the following factors.

Extra wide work table

Sewing a quilt requires manipulating large panels of fabric with multiple layers through the sewing machine. The free arm of a machine does not offer sufficient working space for this. Therefore sewers need a detachable worktable that can be attached in place to increase horizontal workspace. Quilters may be looking for sewing machines that tout a wide extending table to ensure ample room to maneuver the bulky fabric of a quilt.

Large neck area

The neck of a sewing machine is the open space defined by the machine’s upright arm, horizontal arm, sewing head, and bed. With a longer horizontal arm and a taller vertical arm, the neck area is larger and therefore able to accommodate the bulky materials of a quilt. Home use quilting and sewing machines are generally classified as short arm machines. Within this category, many throats are only about 5 inches long. However, quilters may be looking for models with 8- to 9-inch throats.

free motion sewing

On most sewing projects, the metal teeth of the feed dog exit through the machine’s needle plate to guide the fabric in a straight line as it is fed through the machine and under the needle for sewing. The teeth of the feed dogs gently grip the fabric to control its movement. However, many quilting projects require free motion sewing, a technique in which the feed dogs are released to allow the sewer to control the movement of the fabric and the direction of the stitch. Quilters create interesting designs using the free motion technique. So they look for sewing machines that advertise the drop feed feature, indicating that the feed dog can be released to allow for free-motion sewing.

The Best Sewing Machines for Quilting: Reviews & Recommendations

According to the Craft Industry Alliance, a 2020 survey revealed a quilt market estimated at $4.2 billion per year. Additionally, the group estimates that between 9 and 11 million women quilters in North America are actively involved in the art of quilting. Every quilt enthusiast wants to use the best sewing machines for quilting, crafting and sewing their unique projects, and everyone can find a specialty machine to suit their needs here.

Best Overall: Singer Quantum Stylist 9960 Sewing Machine

Why it made the cut: With a large, attachable worktable, a wide range of built-in stitches, and plenty of automatic features to save time and effort, the Singer Quantum Stylist 9960 sewing machine is the favorite of quilters.

specifications

Weight: 20 pounds

20 pounds Product dimensions: 17.25 inches long, 8.25 inches wide and 12 inches high

17.25 inches long, 8.25 inches wide, and 12 inches high Computerized or Mechanical: Computerized

advantages

Speed ​​control with high speed capacity

Includes 14 interchangeable attachable feet

600 built-in stitches with 5 monogram fonts

Extension table for a larger work area

Disadvantages

The neck isn’t as big as some machines

The computer-controlled sewing machine Singer Quantum Stylist 9960 is highly praised by quilters. In addition, it is a versatile machine that is suitable for countless creative sewing projects in addition to quilting. With a massive selection of 600 built-in stitches and five alphanumeric fonts, this machine enables seamstresses to fulfill their most imaginative quilting dreams. Quilters can lengthen and mirror many of the built-in stitches to create truly unique designs.

In addition to accessories such as needles and bobbins, this machine includes a large extension table that is ideal for working with thick quilts. Included, interchangeable accessories make multiple sewing tasks easier, including: Quilting Guide Bar; all-purpose foot; zipper foot; buttonhole foot; satin foot; blind hem foot; foot with narrow hem; open toe foot; cord foot; darning/embroidery foot (can be used for free motion sewing); Smooth feed/running foot; covering the foot; button sewing foot; and quarter inch feet.

The Quantum Stylist 9960 is packed with features that make sewing and quilting easier and more enjoyable. The speed control enables fast sewing with up to 850 stitches per minute for straight seams. Alternatively, sewers can choose a slower pace for intricate patterns. For quick setup, the see-through spool features a top drop-in design that allows for easy line feed monitoring. When it comes time to thread the needle, the machine will do the work automatically, eliminating frustration and eyestrain.

Best computerized: Brother HC1850 sewing and quilting machine

Why it made the cut: The Brother HC1850 computerized sewing machine offers quilter-friendly features such as B. A spring-action quilting foot and free-motion sewing along with push-button stitch selection and a backlit LCD screen.

specifications

Weight: 10.14 pounds

10.14 pounds Product dimensions: 19.2 inches long, 12.5 inches wide and 15.2 inches high

19.2 inches long x 12.5 inches wide x 15.2 inches high Computerized or Mechanical: Computerized

advantages

Automatic bottom feed for free-motion sewing

185 built-in stitches

Large table workstation

Automatic needle threader

Disadvantages

The neck isn’t as big as some machines

Many quilters engage in different types of creative sewing projects, but they look for specific quilting features when purchasing sewing machines. The Brother HC1850 computer controlled machine offers several preferred quilting functions. These include a detachable wide table, spring-action quilting foot and free-motion sewing capability. The machine also has 185 built-in stitches, including 55 alphanumeric monogram stitches and eight one-step buttonhole stitches. Users can consult the built-in stitch flipchart and easily select their favorite stitch patterns with the push of a button. Your selection is clearly displayed on a backlit LCD screen.

Numerous functions of this machine facilitate creative quilting, sewing and monogramming. Both the top drop-in spool and the automatic needle threading system support quick and easy setup. A speed control system allows sewers to sew fast for straight seams, or sew slower for free motion and intricate patterns. At any speed, the advanced feeding system ensures the smooth feeding of multiple different fabric types through the machine. Additionally, the bright LED light illuminates the work area for precise sewing.

The Brother HC1850 machine has eight interchangeable feet for a variety of sewing and quilting functions, including: spring-action quilting foot; blind stitch foot; buttonhole foot; button closure at foot; covering the foot; monogram base; zipper foot; and zigzag foot. Other accessories include needles, bobbins, a seam ripper, a screwdriver and more.

Best with a wide work table: Brother PQ1500SL sewing and quilting machine

Why it made the cut: The Brother PQ1500SL machine features an extra-wide worktable and large through-feed, pin-feed mechanism, built-in toggle lever and four feed-dog adjustments to make quilting a dream. TRUE.

specifications

Weight: 29.76 pounds

29.76 pounds Product dimensions: 19.3 inches long, 7.9 inches wide and 12.6 inches high

19.3 inches long by 7.9 inches wide by 12.6 inches high Computerized or Mechanical: Mechanical

advantages

High speed straight stitch

Large neck area for bulky quilts

Extra large table work area

Pin Feed Mechanism

Disadvantages

A bit expensive

Straight stitches only, no built-in decorative stitches

For passionate quilters, the Brother PQ1500SL sewing machine offers several advantages over other machines that encourage versatility for different types of sewing projects. It is a straight stitch machine that can work at a high speed of up to 1,500 stitches per minute. However, it doesn’t offer built-in decorative stitching options.

This machine offers the necessary working space to make large quilts. The extra wide, attachable table measures 27.9 x 54.5 cm. Also, the throat area is larger than most machines. It offers a needle-to-arm distance of 5.7 inches by 8.6 inches. Both the extension table and neck take up the extra bulk of quilting projects.

When using the feed dog system, the machine allows for four optional settings to achieve maximum control over different types of fabric. Alternatively, this machine offers the option of a pin feed mechanism that works in place of the feed dog system. An adjustable pin protrudes from underneath to maneuver all layers of a quilt together in one smooth feed through the machine. The spring-action quilting foot adjusts to variations in fabric layer and thickness as it is run through the machine. In addition, the built-in toggle is a handy feature for quilters. It allows the sewer to raise and lower the sewing foot by moving a lever with his knee. Therefore, the user’s hands are free to control the movement of the tissue.

In addition to needles, bobbins and other accessories, the machine includes seven interchangeable sewing feet, including: spring-action quilting foot; walking foot; quarter inch foot; all-purpose foot; foot with rolled hem; Adjustable zipper/piping foot; and invisible zipper foot.

Best with a large throat: Juki TL-2000Qi sewing and quilting machine

Why She Made the Cut: The Juki TL-2000Qi sewing machine, with its large feed range and wide, attachable table, offers a generous workspace for processing bulky quilting materials.

specifications

Weight: 25.4 pounds

25.4 pounds Product dimensions: 17.8 inches long, 8.6 inches wide and 13.8 inches high

17.8 inches long, 8.6 inches wide, and 13.8 inches high Computerized or Mechanical: Mechanical

advantages

High-speed sewing up to 1,500 stitches per minute

Large neck area

Wide, attachable extension table

knee lift

Disadvantages

Straight stitches only; does not contain decorative stitches

Headquartered in Tokyo, Japan, Juki Corporation and Juki America, Inc. provide industrial sewing equipment and home sewing machines. The Juki TL2000Qi sewing machine is favored by quilters as a single needle lockstitch machine that is well suited for fast, precise straight stitch sewing. One of the features favored by quilters is the large neck area, measuring 8.5 inches in length and 5.9 inches in height. In addition, an attachable extension table offers additional space for sewing thick quilts.

Several handy features make this sewing machine a pleasure to use. The automatic needle threader makes threading the needle a breeze, and the automatic thread cutter cuts both the needle and bobbin threads at the same time with just the gentle push of a button. An enlarged bobbin case area makes it easier than ever to remove and swap bobbins. The knee lift allows seamstresses to raise and lower the sewing foot without using their hands. This feature means users can keep their hands on the fabric at all times for better control.

Simply turn a dial on top of the machine to adjust the presser foot pressure for different types of fabric. Use the needle up/down controls to set the needle position when the machine stops. A down position facilitates a pivoting movement useful with the free motion sewing technique required for many quilting projects.

The Juki TL2000Qi machine is capable of sewing at high speeds, producing up to 1,500 stitches per minute. The arm and bed are made of die-cast aluminum to produce minimal vibration when the machine is in operation. Accessories and interchangeable feet include: needle pack, bobbins and spool cap; screwdriver and lint brush; ⅕ inch quilting foot; even foot; compensating sewing foot; and standard presser foot.

Best for free motion sewing: Janome MC6650 sewing and quilting machine

Why it made the cut: The Janome Memory Craft 6650 Sewing Machine makes free-motion sewing easy and offers a wealth of handy features and accessories for creating beautiful heirloom-quality quilts.

specifications

Weight: 24.25 pounds

24.25 pounds Product dimensions: 20 inches long, 9 inches wide and 12 inches high

Measures 20 inches long, 9 inches wide, and 12 inches high Computerized or Mechanical: Computerized

advantages

Drop feed feature for free motion sewing

6 LED lights in 3 places

High speed up to 1,000 stitches per minute

170 built-in stitches + 2 alphabets

Disadvantages

price range at the upper end

Serious quilters looking to reach new heights of artistic expression through their quilting projects may be interested in the Janome Memory Craft 6650 computerized sewing and quilting machine. One of the signature techniques for quilters is free motion sewing. This machine facilitates this technique with its drop-feed capability, which lowers the feed dogs to release their hold on the fabric. In addition, the programmable needle up/down feature allows the user to rotate the fabric when the machine stops with the needle in the down position. The MC6650’s standard accessories include interchangeable free-motion sewing parts such as B. Convertible Free Motion Quilting Foot Set; a free-motion quilt holder; and a zigzag foot for free motion quilting.

Create imaginative and unique quilts with the 170 built-in stitches, including many decorative options. A backlit LCD screen displays the stitches and the user simply presses a button to make their selection. The built-in stitches include two alphabets for monogram quilts and other sewing projects. Slide a lever to control the machine’s working speed, up to 1,000 stitches per minute.

Numerous practical functions make operating the Janome MC6650 a pleasure. The machine includes two needle plates along with a single pressure needle plate conversion mechanism. An automatic needle threading system takes the hassle out of threading the needle. The entire work area is well lit by six LED lights placed in three places on the machine. Use the manual thread tension control to adjust tension for different fabric types, then enjoy smooth fabric feed facilitated by the 5-piece feed dog system.

In addition to the free motion accessories mentioned above, the Janome MC6650 machine offers a range of standard interchangeable parts for sewing project versatility, including: Blind Hem Foot G; buttonhole foot; darning foot; Open satin stitch foot; edge foot M; foot with rolled hem; satin stitch foot; zigzag foot; and zipper foot E.

Best Budget: Brother XR3774 Sewing and Quilting Machine

Why it made the cut: For the budget-conscious quilter, the Brother XR3774 mechanical sewing machine is packed with user-friendly features, including a large table, spring-loaded quilting foot and quilting guide bar.

specifications

Weight: 15.87 pounds

15.87 pounds Product dimensions: 15.3 inches long, 8 inches wide and 12 inches high

15.3 inches long, 8 inches wide, and 12 inches high Computerized or Mechanical: Mechanical

advantages

Large extendable table

Spring-loaded quilting foot for free-motion sewing

37 built-in stitches

Automatic needle threader

Disadvantages

Not computerized

Not as many built in stitches as some machines

The Brother XR3774 sewing machine is available at an affordable price and offers many features that quilters will appreciate. The extra-large table makes it easy to handle the bulky fabric of large quilts. In addition, a well-designed walking foot allows seamstresses to feed multiple layers of fabric through the machine at once. A transparent plastic quilting foot promotes visibility for the sewer. In addition, the quilting foot features a spring action design to raise and lower the foot as it slides across different layers of fabric. An included quilt guide bar helps quilters achieve evenly spaced rows of stitches in their projects.

Although this mechanical machine does not have the high-tech characteristics of computer machines, it offers many useful features to make sewing tasks easier. Seamstresses can use the 37 built-in stitches for 74 stitch functions, including a 1-step auto-size buttonhole machine. The automatic needle threader saves time and frustration, and the top drop-in bobbin is jam-proof for hassle-free sewing. The machine also winds the bobbin automatically. When users are not working on quilting projects, the built-in free arm allows for sewing in tight areas such as cuffs, sleeves, and pant legs.

See all the functions and features of the XR3774 machine via the bright LED light that illuminates the work area. Switch from one sewing task to the next by attaching the eight interchangeable sewing feet that come with the machine, including: quilting foot; walking foot; blind stitch foot; zipper foot; zigzag foot; buttonhole foot; button sewing foot; and foot with narrow hem.

frequently asked Questions

Q: What is the best quilting machine? Because of the large amount of fabric in a quilting project, quilters may look for machines with large throats and attachable extension tables. These features allow quilters to handle the bulky quilting materials. Additionally, quilters who use the free-motion technique might look for machines with drop-feed capabilities. Q: What is the difference between a regular sewing machine and a quilting machine? The difference between a regular sewing machine and a quilting machine is that a quilting machine allows for specific sewing techniques to create quilts. Interchangeable parts such as a spring-loaded quilting foot and a quilting guide rod support the quilter in his work. A large passage area and a wide extension table provide the necessary working space for handling bulky quilts. Quilters also prefer machines that offer a drop-feed feature for free-motion sewing. Q: How much does a sewing machine for quilting cost? A sewing machine for quilting is only $150-$200, or $2,000-$4,000. Quilters can browse a wide range of machines with different features and capabilities. Q: Can you quilt with a regular sewing machine? You can quilt with a regular sewing machine from manufacturers like Singer and Brother, but they may not provide a large enough neck area and work table to handle the large amount of fabric in a quilt. Handling the bulky quilting materials on a regular sewing machine can prove cumbersome. In addition, some regular sewing machines do not offer the drop-feed feature that allows for free-motion sewing. Q: What sewing machine does Suzy Quilts use? Suzy Quilts uses a BERNINA sewing machine. Suzy is a BERNINA Expert Ambassador and blogs with tutorials, quilt patterns, fabrics, quilting tools and more. Q: Do you need a special sewing machine for quilting? You need a special sewing machine for quilting if you want to get serious about the craft of quilting on a regular basis. For beginners and casual crafters, it is possible to sew quilts on any sewing machine; However, the machine may not have enough space to handle the bulky materials. Many sewing machines offer versatility for sewing garments and home accessories, as well as creating crafts and quilts. Q: Can you use a mini sewing machine for quilting? You cannot use a mini sewing machine for quilting as it would be too small to sew through the multiple layers of fabric in a quilt. In addition, a mini sewing machine does not provide the working space necessary to handle the large, bulky materials of a quilt.

Final thoughts on the best sewing machines for quilting

The Singer Quantum Stylist 9960 gets high marks from reviewers and sewers, from beginners to seasoned experts, who praise its durability and versatility. With computer controlled function, it offers a wide range of automatic functions that make sewing a pleasurable activity and lead to successful results in quilting, sewing and craft projects. Because of its ease of use and versatile features, the Quantum Stylist 9960 is the ideal choice as the best sewing machine for quilters and sewing enthusiasts.

I bring you something very special and exciting today – a complete guide to hiring a long sleeve quilter! While I like to pretend I know everything there is to know about our quilting world, the truth is that there are some avenues of quilting that I know very little about. But should that stop me from writing about it? I say no! I found a workaround. Today’s post is an in-depth interview with a friend of mine who is a master long sleeve quilter. She will walk us through the details of her process and what you should know about hiring a long sleeve quilter.

Jessie Zeigler of Threaded Quilting Studio is a quilt pattern designer and award-winning long sleeve quilter based in Central Iowa. I first met Jessie at a sewing convention a few years ago and we became instant friends. A few weeks ago Jessie and I were chatting on the phone about long sleeve quilting and some of the common misconceptions people have. We’ve developed a Q&A style answer sheet so you can read through or skim the questions you want answered.

What exactly is long sleeve quilting? Do you have a special sewing machine?

The steps to load my long arm machine with your quilt sandwich…

1. The backing is loaded first.

2. The cotton is placed on the pad.

3. I either roll the quilt top around the top canvas roll as shown below, or I let it float, meaning the top hangs freely over the batting layer.

4. Next, I sew a perfectly straight line through the batting and backing with my long arm, then align the top edge of the quilt with the stitching line to make sure we start nice and square. I will then carefully sew the top edge down, removing the pins as I go.

Do long arm quilters drive the machine or is the machine fully computerized and working on its own?

Some require guidance, some don’t. I have a computerized system that I use to automate most of the stitching that goes into a quilt top. This means I have a tablet connected to my machine which I program to embroider designs for my clients. The designs I input are embroidered using motors that control the machine head. Some long sleeve quilters don’t have a digital or computerized setup. This means they hand feed the machine to create the designs. I’ve done both and am really enjoying the speed and accuracy of this digital quilting life!

What different designs can I get quilted?

How much time do you have? The answer is a lot. So you know how quilt blocks and quilt patterns run the gamut from old as the hills to fresh and modern and everything in between? Well, there’s a whole world of stitch options too. There are designers creating digital quilt designs that look like traditional stitching (think Baptist fans, crosshatching, feather wreaths), more modern, geometric designs, and even say-what-you-see patterns (which isn’t technically real). term, but if you describe what you want, I’ll make it happen.)

What I mean are items like soccer balls, ballet flats, flags, eagles, ribbons, etc. Sometimes these can be really cute! My aesthetic favors geometric, somewhat abstract designs. But I’ll embroider anything your heart desires, even if it’s an edgy design resembling your cat’s head? You bet! You’re the boss, boss! Having quilted for a long time, I have a good idea of ​​what embroidery designs will complement your assembled quilt top. If you’re open, I can suggest some options and offer ideas that you may not have even considered.

Edge-to-Edge Quilting: The quilting is done evenly throughout the quilt and is not area specific; ie. The quilting is repeated from edge to edge

the quilting will be even across the quilt top and not area specific; ie. The quilting is repeated from edge to edge Pantograph or “panto”: a repeating quilt design

a repeating quilt pattern Custom quilting: various stitch designs created to emphasize specific parts of a quilt pattern; curated and customized rather than using a standard repeating pattern

Have you ever heard the term “custom quilting”? Although I don’t offer custom quilting, you should know about it. I mean, if you can’t talk intelligently about custom quilting at your next dinner party, do you even quilt? Custom quilting means that there are different quilt designs for different parts of the quilt. Also, if you choose the same quilting motif for the entire main quilt but use a different quilting pattern for the edges, I think that’s normal. Or maybe each of your blocks has a different quilting motif? This is certainly customary. Custom quilting doesn’t necessarily mean fancy or better, but it can mean that. Typically, quilts you see hanging in shows or heirloom quilts have custom quilting. In general, when hiring a quilter, you should expect to pay more for custom work.

If I have something very specific in mind, could a long sleeve quilter imitate a sketch or photo?

This is 100% up to the long arm quilter. I would and have in the past. If you have an idea or an inspirational photo, I’ll help you browse the pantographs on the market to see if the repeating design already exists. If not, I would consider building a pantograph to suit your needs if that is within my means.

Why do some people like to rent a long arm quilter?

There are various reasons to hire a long sleeve quilter. It’s not the fun part of quilting. If you don’t enjoy the process, why force yourself to do it? If you just want to put your bodices together and keep going, hiring a long sleeve quilter is a time-effective way to finish what you started instead of letting bodices pile up unused.

If you don’t enjoy the process, why force yourself to do it? If you just want to put your bodices together and keep going, hiring a long sleeve quilter is a time-effective way to finish what you started instead of letting bodices pile up unused. Lack of confidence in quilting. Many of my clients lack confidence in their own quilting skills. They invest a lot of time and money sewing the quilt top, knowing that their vision of the finished quilt exceeds what they might be able to do. A blunt way of putting it: they’re afraid they’ll ruin it.

Many of my clients lack confidence in their own quilting skills. They invest a lot of time and money sewing the quilt top, knowing that their vision of the finished quilt exceeds what they might be able to do. A blunt way of putting it: they’re afraid they’ll ruin it. Size. I have some clients who actually enjoy quilting and are good at it, but maybe the bed size quilt is too big to be a comfortable endeavor. I have clients who find it physically demanding to baste a quilt and manipulate the quilt sandwich and just would rather not do it.

I have some clients who actually enjoy quilting and are good at it, but maybe the bed size quilt is too big to be a comfortable endeavor. I have clients who find it physically demanding to baste a quilt and manipulate the quilt sandwich and just would rather not do it. I’m just over it. Have you ever DONE with a quilt? Emotionally speaking? If you’re at this point, it might be a good time to call in a longarmer. To like it again you have to send it to someone else for this cute quilting charm. So when you get it back, it’s a wonderful reunion!

Are there specific things I need to do to my quilt to prepare it for a long arm quilter?

Yes, please! Besides, they are simple things. The back must be larger than the top. Different quilters have different frames and loading systems and therefore different needs. I need at least 4 inches extra on each side of the top for it to load properly. Let’s say you have a quilt that measures 60″ x 60″. Your back should be at least 68″ x 68″ = four extra inches on the top, right, bottom and left.

Different quilters have different frames and loading systems and therefore different needs. I need at least 4 inches extra on each side of the top for it to load properly. Let’s say you have a quilt that measures 60″ x 60″. Your back should be at least 68″ x 68″ = four extra inches on the top, right, bottom and left. Tip! Buy extra wide fabric to avoid sewing. Hate putting your backside together? I kind of do it Buy a wide back and you’re done. Many fabric manufacturers produce 108″ wide backings that fit most quilts. I even encourage my customers to purchase a wide backing online and have it shipped to me just to avoid additional shipping costs.

DO you HATE chunking your support? Me, yes. Buy yourself a wide back and you’re done. Many fabric manufacturers produce 108″ wide backings that fit most quilts. I even encourage my customers to purchase a wide backing online and have it shipped to me just to avoid additional shipping costs. Press open the seams. If you Stitching Your Back Together, horizontal seams across the back are preferable, but vertical seams work too Press open the back seam This reduces bulk and looks smoother than pressing to the side.

When assembling your back, horizontal stitching across the back is preferable, but vertical stitching works too. Iron on the ironing seam. This reduces bulk and looks smoother than pushing to the side. Set a clear direction with your directional fabric. If you have a specific direction that either the top or back needs to be, let your quilter know. There’s a secret signal I learned early on from customers more experienced than me… They stick a safety pin in the center of the top when there’s confusion. If the quilt is square it may not matter at all which direction the quilt goes, but sometimes the quilt design is directional and then identifying the bodice can make a difference if you have a preference.

If you have a specific direction that either the top or back needs to be, let your quilter know. There’s a secret signal I learned early on from customers more experienced than me… They stick a safety pin in the center of the top when there’s confusion. If the quilt is square it may not matter at all which direction the quilt goes, but sometimes the quilt design is directional and then identifying the bodice can make a difference if you have a preference. Sometimes a holding suture is required around the perimeter. If you have seams that are starting to come out the sides or are slanting edges around the perimeter (prone to stretching), stay stitched around the quilt. This step can make a big difference. Standing seams mean you sew a straight seam all the way around the perimeter — say ⅛ inch in from the edge — with nothing else layered on top. They only stabilize them with thread to resist warping, stretching or unraveling.

Is there a difference between a “stand” stitch and a “basting” stitch? Yes, but it’s a small difference – just a few millimeters or so. When sewing a standing stitch, keep your normal stitch length (probably 2.5 to assemble a quilt). The purpose of a holding stitch is to prevent fabric puckering, or in this case unsecured stitches. A basting stitch is temporary and uses a much longer stitch length (like 5). Basting stitches are used to temporarily hold fabrics together and will most likely be torn out. An easy way to remember this is that a standing stitch stays. Was that already clear?

I love using different types of fabric. Do you accept double gauze, linen and flannel blankets? How about a bed sheet as a base? is this crazy??

I’ll be down if you are! I don’t think I’ve ever had a bad experience with backing material and I’ve used many different materials over the years. Hit? Yes, I have had a few negative experiences. But backing? no If you, as my client, are willing to try something new and exciting, then so am I! However, let me be clear that this is not 100% confirmation of everything you send me. This is me trying to make your vision work and make you realize that it might not be great, but it could be! Well, if it’s blinded? That’s a no from me. Going over a bezel (I mean a bead?) would damage my machine and I would be very upset.

What’s the worst quilt you’ve been sent but still made it work?

I once quilted a top made from old baby receiving blankets. The stitching was so thick my needle couldn’t get over it. Oh yeah…many of the blankets were stained and one still had dried spit on it. I’ve never come across anything like that again, but you know what? I stitched the layers together as best I could and I’m sure it was special to the person who received it. [Interruption from Suzy: Jessie, you are a better woman than me.]

Do I bring my own percussion? Would a long sleeve quilter use whatever batting I want? I love wool would you ever use that?

That’s an option, but not an economical one. Usually customers who give me their own cotton are in my local area (Central Iowa, remember?). Since it’s usually more expensive to ship bulky cotton, it’s more economical to use what I have in stock. I have 100% cotton wadding, 80/20 cotton/polyester wadding, 70/30 cotton/polyester wadding, 100% polyester wadding and green wadding in smaller sizes made from 100% recycled plastic bottles.

I love wool too! I don’t have many customers asking for wool with edge-to-edge work, so I don’t keep them in stock, but I might specially order them if I have enough lead. The same applies to other materials such as bamboo, artificial silk or black cotton wool.

My big secret is that I love poly lashes! Polys have gotten a bad rap over the years (rightly so from some cheap brands), but Quilters Dream is a poly I absolutely love because it resists wrinkles in a finished quilt, has great loft (but not obnoxiously dense loft , if you know what I mean), stitch definition is excellent too! Polywool is cheaper and also runs cleaner in my machine because cotton can get damn fuzzy. Some customers still can’t resist the creases/shrinkage/crimps of cotton so they are never sold on poly. For that reason though, I think cotton-poly blends are a really good option – you get the best of both worlds!

Read more about choosing the right batting for your quilt here!

There are no good or bad choices, it all comes down to preference. If you’re not sure which batting option to choose, tell me how the quilt will be used or where it will live and I can help you decide.

What is a basic turnaround time?

The typical turnaround time for long sleeve quilting is 2 to 4 weeks. At this stage in my business I would say allow a week or two to complete a quilt and sometimes faster if at all possible! I arrange my work in the order in which it actually gets to me. If you have a plan to make a quilt next spring and want to know if you can get it back in time for your mom’s birthday…I’m not sure? Things might be different then, so when you have your quilt top and backing ready to ship then ask me and I’ll have a much better idea of ​​how long it will take.

Let’s talk $$$. I’ve seen a range and I’m curious how you calculate that.

Most long sleeve quilters charge per square inch. That means you take the measurements of your quilt and multiply them together. For example, let’s take a quilt top that is 60 inches wide and 80 inches long. 60 x 80 = 4,800. Multiply 4,800 by my square inch rate, which is 2.5 cents. 4,800 x 0.025 = $120 How about a giant 100 x 100 inch quilt? 100 x 100 = 10,000 x 0.025 = $250. I have a minimum loading fee of $50, so anything under $50 will be increased to the minimum. Unfortunately, even if the square inch dimensions of your table runner are only $35, your final price is $50. We sometimes come across this with baby blankets as well.

Costs included in this price per square inch:

Collaborative help deciding which panto would look good (including the scale)

Thread (I’ll help you choose the color)

Time spent loading the long arm machine to get your quilt top and back as “rectangular” as possible

Time taken to sew the quilt

Help with tricky areas of your quilt (easier to pull in extra fabric: techniques may include starching or pin-tucking to avoid gathering)

Precision quilting, great tension, beginnings and ends knotted and buried in the middle of your quilt so they’re virtually undetectable (that’s primo service, not everyone does that!).

Weather permitting (for lighting purposes) and not delaying the return of your quilt, I always try to snap some good photos of your quilt for you to have and use.

Costs in addition to this price per square inch include:

Hit

return

Sales Tax (if you are located outside of the state of Iowa, sales tax will be charged on the service-only portion of your invoice).

It’s always a mystery to me what the design will look like when it’s finished. Is there a way to see a model or proof?

There’s no way to actually see the finished quilt without quilting it, but I can give you a rough idea. I’ll be honest, I haven’t worked out a *perfect* system for this. Often I will suggest a few designs that I think will look good on your bodice based on my experience as a quilter. I repeatedly take photos of the design and text them to you so you can get an overall impression of the design and how it looks nested in rows across the quilt. I can then zoom in to the ‘actual’ size of the subject, but when communicating that through photos there’s always a scaling factor that we work around. What helps: Compare the size of the quilt motifs with the size of the patchwork. For example, if you’ve used 12″ blocks and the panto’s scale – whether it’s a 12″ row or a 3″ row – you’ll get an idea of ​​how the scale works in relation to fitting . Another great help is to look at photos of previous quilts from my website or Instagram feed to get an idea of ​​what you love!

Photo and quilt by Pen and Paper Patterns

What if I’m a new quilter and unsure about sewing? Is my quilt top good enough for you to quilt?

Listen to me: IT’S GOOD ENOUGH. People who care enough about this question are the kind of quilters who are conscientious enough to do a good job. Trust me – your quilt is fine. It’s probably even great! I have never turned down a quilt and can’t imagine a scenario where I would ever do so. We all have to start somewhere and the beginning is a beautiful place. Embrace the imperfections because perfect is boring!

I’ve just spent 40 hours on this quilt top and I’m afraid to send it away. Hold my hand and feel better!

Here’s what happens when you decide to work with me. You fill out the form on my website and provide as much information as you would like about your quilt. Fill in the information you know and don’t emphasize what you haven’t decided yet. I will reply to your form via email, answer any questions you have for me and give you the address to send me your quilted top and back fabric. If you gave me your mobile number on the form I will text you when I receive the quilt. I’ll text you as I prepare to work on your quilt and we’ll work out any details that aren’t decided yet. I’ll send you pictures of examples if you narrow down the quilting options. We discuss thread color. I’ll text you when I’m done along with some photos of your quilt. I will ask if you would like me to purchase additional insurance on your behalf when I return your quilt to you. I will pack your quilt securely in flat rate boxes (if it fits, I have larger boxes if not). I’ll buy the postage and personally take it to the post office to mail it. I will invoice you via PayPal (including the exact shipping amount) and include your tracking number so you know exactly when your quilt will be delivered.

For more details on all of the projects shown here, check out this post on the Threaded Quilting website.

IMPRESSIVE! Can you believe all the great information Jessie just shared?! Did these questions and answers answer any of your questions or ease your concerns about hiring a long sleeve quilter? There are many great long sleeve quilt options out there, especially in the wonderful world of social media that is opening doors for businesses around the world. Finding the right long sleeve quilter for you and your project can be difficult. I’ve found that sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and try a few. Once you find someone you like, it can turn into a great relationship where you know exactly what to expect and they understand what you like. A bit like my current relationship with the donut shop down the street. I don’t even have to say anything, but if they see my pregnant body coming, they’ll have an old-fashioned donut and coffee ready for me. Who does not want that?

After investing hours making a quilt, you want to see a financial return. Pricing a handmade quilt doesn’t have to be a mystery: run the numbers, look at the time and materials you put into the work, and determine what it takes to turn a profit.

The quilt pricing formula

The pricing of a quilt is like any other company. You want to recoup your expenses and make a profit. The quilt must generate enough revenue to cover both. According to Daydreams of Quilt, the general formula for selling a handmade product is:

(shipping cost + time) x 2 = wholesale x 2 = retail

Your material costs should include all materials, including:

fabric for top

fabric for the base

fabric to tie

Hit

thread

sample

What is often overlooked is the cost of the equipment. Your sewing machine, rotary cutter, pins, cutting board, scissors, etc. are all accessories. They’re start-up costs that eat up profits initially and need to be replaced across multiple projects. If you need to buy something special for a project, this must be taken into account.

Hand quilting vs. long arm quilting

You’ve assembled your quilt, but will you be hand quilting too? There is a difference. If you plan to hand quilt, you need to determine how much your time is worth. This is in addition to the time you’ve already spent putting it together.

Many quilters send their quilts to a long sleeve quilting service. These services are usually charged per square inch.

Woodside Quilting explains that quilting costs can range from 2 to 5 cents per square inch. The range of these prices is based on the complexity of the quilt. This adds to the overall price of the quilt.

Run the numbers and set your prize

What does it all mean? Let’s put numbers into the quilt pricing formula, let’s say you assemble and quilt it yourself to calculate a 72″ x 72″ quilt.

Material cost = $135

Time at $15 per hour x 15 hours = $225

Now we will include these numbers in the formula.

($135 + $225) x 2 = wholesale ($720) x 2 = retail ($1,440)

Using the formula, you can see exactly what you need to calculate in order to not only recoup your expenses, but also make a profit.

What if you can stitch but can’t quilt? That will increase the cost. For a 72″ x 72″ quilt, it will cost you at least $103 to have it stitched by a service (at 2 cents per square inch). And if it’s a complicated quilt, it might cost more. That brings your cost of supplies and labor to at least $463.

As noted in Daydreams of Quilt, you may not always be able to follow the quilt pricing formula when the cost becomes too high for the market. Some crafters can only sell their wares for the cost of supplies plus a markup for their time.

Will the market bear your price?

You have evaluated your quilt, now you want to sell it. Sewing is Cool states that a queen-size quilt starts at around $350 and can go as high as $1,500. A baby blanket costs between $150 and $400. There’s a lot of competition.

Visit online marketplaces and see what your competitors’ prices are like. You may find that you are right in line and competitive. If not, reconsider your pricing. Set a deadline for a sale. If your quilt doesn’t sell by that date, consider lowering your price.

Gammill Technical Support is available seven days a week at 417-256-5919.

Part of the training that we carry out with personal delivery concerns the basic maintenance of the machine; and many basic maintenance issues are covered in the manual supplied with your machine, also available at www.Gammill.com.

You can perform much of the basic maintenance yourself, but we also recommend that you have your machine serviced by a technician on a regular basis to keep your machine in top working condition. Gammill technicians offer on-site service calls. (Quilting machines are big pieces of equipment. If your fridge needs repairs, will you be asked to ship it to the factory or take it to the local dealer?) On-site service is also preferable, since the technician can then service your entire machine and not just the sewing head. If you use your machine for business purposes all day, every day, you may want to have this done once a year. If you are a home quilter, once every five years is probably sufficient. We believe our network of professionally trained technicians is one of our greatest assets. Unlike other brands, you don’t have to box up your machine and send it back to the factory for service, or rely on on-site sewing machine technicians unfamiliar with your machine.

Click here to request a service visit.